The Moors called their al-Gharb the Sunset Land, and visitors have been waxing lyrical ever since. Blessed with a mild winter climate and a sunny disposition, Portugal’s playground province remains one of the most popular year-round holiday destinations in southern Europe. Lively coastal resorts spill over ribbons of golden sand in sharp contrast to the quiet villages of the hinterland, where history and tradition go hand in hand.
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A local favourite at lunchtime. Ask for the superb-value “Dish of the Day.”
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The duck breast in sweet and sour sauce is marvellous, as is the deer in red wine.
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Larger-than-life proprietor Joaquim Charneco and his wife Marta have scooped numerous culinary awards for their delicious choice of rustic fare. Traditional wood-burning ovens give the food its distinct flavour.
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Game, fish, meat and seafood make up the amazing 160 different dishes at this typical Algarve eatery. Culinary awards and caricatures of the proprietor adorn the walls.
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Thetamboril (monkfish) is a speciality, and the home-made desserts are scrumptious.
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Popular with locals and tourists alike, bustling O Lagar dishes up choice fare, includingbacalhau à lagar (codfish Lagar style). Its central location ensures a busy turnaround.
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Splendid, intimate eatery. House specialities include deliciouscataplana de pargo (sea bream).
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This cosy Dutch-run restaurant exudes a personality all of its own. Generous portions are served in candlelit surrounds, or out on a patio that fills rapidly on summer evenings. Highly recommended is theentrecosto estilo Americano (spare ribs American style).
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The River Seixe meanders past this pretty little village, which makes a handy base for surfers keen to ride the big swells that thunder onto Odeceixe beach. A lone windmill sitting above the village used to take advantage of the fresh winds whipped up by the Atlantic; today it’s a popular spot for scanning the Alentejo countryside. There’s also a curious little museum in the village centre, which recreates the atmosphere of a traditional winery and cellar. This sleepy backwater is about as far as you can get from the summer throngs that pack the coastal resorts.
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The isolated splendour of this attractive hillside village makes the long drive north along the Algarve’s western coast worthwhile. Odeceixe’s beach, cut in two by the mouth of the Seixe creek, is the prize draw. See Beaches. Late spring is the best time of year to visit, when it’s warm and not too busy.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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