The Moors called their al-Gharb the Sunset Land, and visitors have been waxing lyrical ever since. Blessed with a mild winter climate and a sunny disposition, Portugal’s playground province remains one of the most popular year-round holiday destinations in southern Europe. Lively coastal resorts spill over ribbons of golden sand in sharp contrast to the quiet villages of the hinterland, where history and tradition go hand in hand.
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The humble ruins of a 10th-century Moorish castle stand sentinel-like over a higgledy-piggeldy collection of whitewashed houses and café-restaurants that constitute the village of Aljezur. A steep, cobbled path leads up to the timeworn but sturdy castle walls and the splendid view beyond. This riverine area was once a breeding ground for malaria-carrying mosquitoes, and in the 18th century some of the villagers were persuaded to relocate to Igreja Nova, Aljezur’s “modern” counterpart to the east.
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Dominating the landscape around Aljezur are the ruins of the town’s 10th-century castle. Perched on a hillock with fabulous views of the coast and Serra de Monchique, this Moorish stronghold controlled an ancient river port and provided a vital link with the open sea. Its broad, overgrown courtyard hides remnants of a vaulted cistern and is surrounded by high ramparts reinforced by two towers, one round, the other square.
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A lively gypsy troupe trundles into Aljezur on the third Monday of every month with an extraordinary array of clothing, household items and foodstuffs at bargain prices.
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One of the most resplendent of all the Algarve’s treasures is the 18th-century Igreja Matriz de São Lourenço, just outside the unexceptional village of Almansil. Outstandingazulejos panels in the church depict episodes in the life of St Lawrence, while the highly ornate cupola is a breathtaking exercise in trompe-l’oeil – some say the best example of its kind outside Rome.
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The town’s cobbled streets, colourful window frames and cheerful chimney pots invoke an unhurried air that is quite disarming. Alte’s church retains a fine portal and is situated near a leafy square. The spring running along its flank tumbles under an old mill, providing a favourite picnic spot.
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Described as “a delightful snapshot of the real Algarve” in many a tourist brochure, Alte is indeed a picture of beauty and serenity. The little village with its whitewashed façades, filigree chimney pots and rural charm appears to have little time for the 21st century, but always greets visitors with a warm handshake and ready smile. The central attraction is the fonte picnic area near the stream. The area is also renowned for its handicrafts and colourful folklore.
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Alte is one of the prettiest villages in the Algarve, surrounded as it is by the Serra do Caldeirão mountains. The views from the hotel are stunning although its position at the summit of a hill means that having your own transport is useful. Leisure activities include a swimming pool, tennis court and billiards.
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With its sweeping views of the ocean, this splendid course was the last work of eminent designer Sir Henry Cotton. Over 10,000 trees were planted on the par 72 layout, attracting a wealth of colourful birdlife. Aside from the 604-m (nearly 2,000-ft) 16th, the course is not overly difficult and can be enjoyed by golfers of all standards.
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Nestling in a sheltered bay midway between Portimão and Lagos, Alvor is an unusual mix of dignified charm and flickering neon. The old quarter is a delight to wander through, the 16th-century Manueline church is a gem and the village restaurants serve up some of the tastiest seafood in the region.
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Hotel price categories
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
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