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Faro is often overlooked by visitors to the Algarve who tend to head straight for the beach resorts. This is unfortunate, because its Old Town quarter is a particularly enchanting ensemble of centuries-old architecture and fine museums worthy of thorough investigation. Of special merit is the former convent of Nossa Senhora da Assunção, which houses the city’s excellent archaeological museum. See: Faro Old Town; also see Museums.

Overlooking a fertile valley of lemon and orange groves, cork and almond trees and swathes of scented meadows is Silves. Once the grandiose capital of Moorish Algarve, the town’s main draw is its castle. As well as taking the inspiring walk around its red sandstone battlements, visitors should look out for the fabulous vaulted Moorish cistern and Traitor’s gate – the battle-scarred doorway through which Dom Paio Peres Correira stormed to recapture the stronghold for Christian forces in 1242. Outside the castle walls is the 13th-century cathedral, which was the seat of the Algarve see until 1580. See Silves.

This cheerful market town is renowned as a centre of traditional handicraft. The copper, leather and ceramic goods hammered out in the dozens of workshops dotted around its streets are some of the most sought-after in the Algarve. These can be purchased at Loulé’s bustling Saturday morning market along with an amazing selection of fruit and vegetables, fresh fish, herbs, spices, honey, bottled liqueurs and sugared fig cakes. Loulé was an important Moorish settlement, and remnants of Muslim rule still exist. See Loulé.

Albufeira’s claim as the most popular holiday destination in the country is no idle boast. It’s the biggest and most energetic resort in the Algarve, and anyone doubting the fact should make a midsummer bee-line to the thoroughfare dubbed “The Strip”. A forest of neon lends the resort its exotic, all-night atmosphere, and a multitude of bars, restaurants and disco-clubs keep the party swinging till dawn. You can catch up on sleep on any one of Albufeira’s smooth, golden beaches, if you can find a spot amongst fellow sun-worshippers. See Albufeira.

With its refined edge, glamorous reputation and celebrity status, Vilamoura is the resort choice for the well-heeled, where the yacht set and jet set rub shoulders. The boardwalk is also the jumping-off point for coastal cruises on graceful schooners, and shark and marlin fishing expeditions. The region as a whole is of great environmental and historical significance – the wetland surrounding the resort is a protected nature reserve, and the Cerro da Vila (Central Region) is one of the most important Roman sites in Portugal.

One of the most resplendent of all the Algarve’s treasures is the 18th-century Igreja Matriz de São Lourenço, just outside the unexceptional village of Almansil. Outstandingazulejos panels in the church depict episodes in the life of St Lawrence, while the highly ornate cupola is a breathtaking exercise in trompe-l’oeil – some say the best example of its kind outside Rome.

Church, Almancil

Described as “a delightful snapshot of the real Algarve” in many a tourist brochure, Alte is indeed a picture of beauty and serenity. The little village with its whitewashed façades, filigree chimney pots and rural charm appears to have little time for the 21st century, but always greets visitors with a warm handshake and ready smile. The central attraction is the fonte picnic area near the stream. The area is also renowned for its handicrafts and colourful folklore.

Portimão’s principal draw is its wide, sweeping esplanade which makes for an effortless afternoon stroll. One detour worth taking, though, is to the garden in Largo 1º de Dezembro, which has a series of stone benches ornamented with 19th-century azulejos depicting historical events. Regular cruise boats head towards Silves or chart a more bracing course along the coast. The town’s riverfront restaurants dish up generous helpings of succulent charcoal-grilled sardines.

In springtime, wild flowers of every hue blanket the meadows around this hilltop hamlet, with its ruined 12th-century Moorish castle. The terraced battlements are now reclaimed to ingenious effect by enterprising locals who use them as vegetable plots. The short walk around the castle foundations is rewarded with an inviting panorama over the limestonemassif of Rocha da Pena. The area is a known nesting site for the huge eagle owl. Naturalists may also be lucky enough to spy the odd genet or Egyptian mongoose.

Ferragudo has admirably managed to avoid the more garish trappings of tourism and looks the better for it. Sitting at the mouth of the Rio Arade, this attractive fishing village tumbles down to a busy little quayside bristling with fishermen’s huts, artisan’s workshops and one or two truly memorable seafood restaurants. The maze of steep cobbled alleys lead up to a rather handsome church. Praia Grande is a generous swathe of sand, which is popular sunbathing territory and also the location of a big windsurfing school. The beach is dominated by the monolithic Fortaleza de São João, a private residence.