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Morning
A morning’s drive north out of Castro Marim on the EN122 will take you through undulating hills, and lush valleys to the banks of the River Guadiana.
Allow a leisurely hour to get to Alcoutim. Ignore the sign for the town, which looms on your right just before Odeleite. (That will be the road for the return journey.) Instead, carry on past the Barragem de Odeleite, a huge shimmering reservoir, and snake past many hamlets until the junction at Cruzamento, where Alcoutim is signposted.
Refresh yourself at any one of Alcoutim’s cafés hugging the central Praça da República. Alternatively, O Soeiro, at the bottom of Rua Município, has an outside terrace near the quay.
Afternoon
After lunch, consider a mini-excursion to Spain. The local Portuguesebarqueiro (boatman) will take passengers across the river to Sanlúcar, the mirror image of Alcoutim. An equally agreeable Spaniard will ferry you back when you’re ready.
The drive back to Castro Marim, via the 507, is one of the most inspiring routes in the Algarve, along the bank of the Guadiana. Call in at the little Museu do Rio in Guerreiros do Rio ( Inland Villages), to find out about local life.
After Foz de Odeleite the road heads back to the hills before joining the EN122 and arrowing south.
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