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You will need a valid passport to enter Portugal, but no visa is required for EU nationals. Those arriving from Canada, New Zealand or the USA can stay for a maximum of 90 days in any half-year without a visa.

The entry/exit point for visitors by plane is Faro International Airport. The national airline, TAP Air Portugal, and domestic airline Portugalia operate daily scheduled services between Faro and Lisbon and Oporto. There are connections with many international flights out of Lisbon.

Faro International Airport serves both domestic and foreign carriers, all of which arrive and depart from the same terminal. During the high season the airport gets very busy, and even those travelling business class can expect ticket and customs delays.

The airport is located 6 km (3 miles) outside the town, but airline ticket holders can use the free Aerobus shuttle into Faro. The bus runs between mid-May and November and has its own parking bay outside the arrivals hall. All the major car hire companies have offices at the airport.

A tolled motorway (A2) links the Portuguese capital, Lisbon, with the Algarve. Ordinarily, this journey will take around three hours, but in summer long queues form at the toll booths. An alternative route is the toll-free IC1, which runs parallel to the IP1 and IP2.

The Ayamonte-Huelva toll-free motorway links the Algarve with the Spanish towns of Seville, Córdoba and Madrid.

An alternative way to drive to the Algarve from Lisbon is by following the IC1 as far as Mimosa and then turning onto the N263 towards Odemira. Carry on through this town to the N120 which follows the boundaries of the Parque Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina. This wonderfully scenic route will eventually take you all the way to Lagos but will add at least another hour onto your journey time. Another way is to come off the N263 before Odemira and follow the N266 to Monchique – a long and winding, but very pretty drive.

There are excellent express coach services to Faro from towns and cities right across Portugal. The two main coach companies are EVA Transportes SA and Renex. It is best to pre-book tickets from the main bus stations.

The Algarve is served by two aerodromes at Alvor, near Portimão, and Lagos. Private jets and light airplanes also fly in and out of Faro. Alvor and Lagos aerodromes operate sightseeing tours and flight instruction as well.

The road system in the Algarve is generally very good, though the main routes are busy in summer and many back roads are no more than dirt tracks – a four-wheel drive is sometimes required in the hills.

Driving is on the right. The speed limit through towns and villages is 50 kmh (35 mph), 90 kmh (60 mph) on A-roads outside built-up areas and 120 kmh (80 mph) on the motorway. Safety belts (front and back) are compulsory, and children under 12 are not allowed to ride in the front.

All the major car hire companies have offices in the main towns, but the most obvious enquiry point is Faro International Airport, the usual pick-up/drop-off point for visitors. To hire a car, you’ll need your passport and a full international driving licence.

The Algarve is well served by coach and bus companies, with daily connections between a network of coastal and inland towns. Tickets must be pre-booked and can be purchased from main bus stations. Express services have WCs on board and provide video entertainment.

Cost effective, if slow, local bus services operate well between most coastal towns. Inland, however, the service is infrequent at best. Always put your arm out to flag down an approaching bus, and note that bus stop signs (look out for the wordparagem ) can be placed on the opposite side of the road.

CP (Caminhos de Ferro Portuguese) operate a regional train service (no reservation necessary) along the Algarve coast between Vila Real de Santo António and Lagos, with several trains daily in each direction. You have to connect at Tunes for inter-regional and mainline routes heading north (which must be pre-booked).

Taxis use a fixed tariff system, so establish the price before setting off. The minimum flat rate is 5 euros, a telephone booking adds 1 euro, and luggage in the boot adds 3 euros. Rates jump up 20 per cent 10pm–6am, on weekends and public holidays. Tipping, around 10 per cent of the total fare, is at your discretion.

Almancil-based HTA Helicopters Lda operate a fleet of modern, comfortable helicopters with a maximum range of 700 km (500 miles). They can be hired for business or leisure (aerial photography in particular), and a varying number of destinations throughout Portugal are served, as well as Spain and even North Africa.

The River Guadiana is navigable from Vila Real de Santo António up to Alcoutim, and it’s also possible to sail along the Arade, though this stretch is really the preserve of sightseeing tour boats. Coastal excursions are popular, and there are several marinas for safely docking yachts.

The RTA head office can supply the addresses and telephone numbers for all regional tourist offices. Their website (www.rtalgarve.pt) is in four languages but is slow and is often out of date. Better to call the RTA’s information helpline that operates in Portuguese, English, Spanish and French.

Two merit particular mention for their ease of use, the information supplied and the links offered. Browse them at:www.portugal-info.netandwww.algarvenet.com.

123 Algarve is a weekly newspaper published in English, German and Portuguese featuring hundreds of classifieds, from property to services, and an entertainments supplement.

Algarve Tips is a free monthly pamphlet published on behalf of the RTA. It’s a goldmine for information on museums, restaurants and nightclubs, and it is available at most tourist offices. Listings are in English and Portuguese.

Essential Algarve is a glossy, bi-monthly publication featuring in-depth articles on spa resorts, golf courses, property, travel and finance. It is published in English and German.Welcome to the Algarve is a free English-language monthly newspaper with restaurant reviews, sightseeing tips and useful pull-out city maps. It’s available in a host of restaurants, bars and shops.

An Algarve institution,The Resident is a weekly English-language publication packed full of news, views and comment about all things Algarve.The News is a national, weekly, English-language newspaper that includes Algarve domestic news. Books on the Algarve written by locals includeSouthern Portugal: Its People, Traditions and Wildlife , which delves into the history and culture of almost every town and village in the southern Alentejo and Algarve.

Spring and autumn are the best times to visit. The winter months are mild – temperatures rarely fall below freezing. July and August can be uncomfortably hot.

Major museums are usually open 10am–5pm Tuesday to Sunday. Some close for a two-hour lunch break. Major churches are open during the day without a fixed timetable, although some may close between noon and 4pm. Smaller churches and those in rural areas may only be open for services.

The following days are public (bank) holidays in Portugal: 1 January; Carnival Tuesday in February/March (variable), Good Friday, March/April (variable); Revolution Day, 25 April; May Day, 1 May; Corpus Christi, May/June (variable); Camões Day, 10 June; Feast of the Assumption, 15 August; Republic Day, 5 October; All Saints’ Day, 1 November; National Independence Day, 1 December; Immaculate Conception, 8 December; Christmas Day, 25 December.

It’s just about impossible to find any accommodation unless booked well in advance, and bars, restaurants and clubs are uncomfortably full. It’s also the hottest and driest time of the year.

This is an official warning posted by the lifeguard that the water is unsafe, either because of a strong tide, a powerful undertow or (rarely) because of pollution. A green flag fluttering over the sand indicates that conditions are ideal; a yellow flag suggests caution – the tide may be on the turn. Do adhere to these warnings: people have lost their lives in the calmest-looking waters.

The maximum legal blood-alcohol level in Portugal is 0.05 per cent (two small beers or a glass of wine). Even then, this figure may well be reviewed to reduce the percentage to just 0.02 per cent, effectively putting you over the limit even after one small beer. Those caught can expect a night in the cells (a weekend if you’re pulled over on a Friday), a swift court appearance, a heavy fine and possibly even a jail sentence.

The entire Algarve is tinder-dry mid-summer and very susceptible to forest fires. Under no account light open fires away from designated barbecue areas; never discard a lit cigarette or match in the countryside.

Refuse point-blank to sign up to any timeshare scheme on the street. If you are interested in purchasing real estate in this manner the best advice you can seek is from someone who has successfully – and happily – already done so and make a note of the property agent involved.

Until recently, a handy way of obtaining cash out of banking hours was to use a currency exchange machine, similar in operation to an ATM. However, since the introduction of the euro, these devices are largely redundant and susceptible to mechanical failure.

Many museums are closed on Mondays. There are some exceptions, but it’s always better to check ahead rather than arrive and be disappointed. The same goes for public holidays, although during the summer these official days off are often ignored in favour of extra business.

Lunches are long. The Latin notion that it takes two hours to savour a dish of sardines and half a bottle of wine rings true throughout much of the region, especially in rural areas, and particularly on Fridays.

Many trawler crews take Sunday night off and only resume work the following evening. This means that some fish offered for sale on Monday mornings might have been caught some 12 hours earlier and refrigerated before ending up in the market.

To get a real flavour of the Algarve’s markets, go in the early morning when they are at their busiest. This is when the locals are out bagging the best deals. The fish market at Quarteira (Wednesday mornings) and Loulé’s fantastic Saturday market are most vibrant at 9am.

Fish market

Normal shop hours are 9am–1pm and 3pm– 7pm, Mon–Fri. In rural areas most shops close Saturday afternoons and all day Sunday. In the tourist zones, however, many proprietors extend their opening hours throughout the evening.

It’s easy to spend several hours in one of the modern shopping malls, such as Forum Algarve (Faro) and Algarve Shopping (Guia). There, large international stores and hypermarkets sell everything under the sun and usually stay open till 10pm. They are also open on Sundays (although some shops within the malls do shut). Cinemas, children’s play centres, bars and restaurants are all on hand.

If shopping within a budget, steer clear of imported brands, no matter how much they remind you of home. Tinned goods especially are vastly overpriced. In any case, the Portuguese equivalent is generally equal in quality and certainly better value.

There’s no more duty-free shopping in Portugal’s airports, but non-EU tourists should look out for the Europe Tax-Free Shopping Portugal logo displayed in shops. In some circumstances non-EU citizens are eligible for an IVA (Imposto Sobre Valor Acrescentado), or sales tax refund. Minimum purchase is around €55. The goods, refund cheque and your passport should be presented at Faro customs on departure for a refund by post.

The Algarve is famed for itsmarisco (shellfish), and the choice is bewildering. Open-air markets and supermarkets have shellfish counters where stock is packed in ice or submerged in water to keep it fresh and moist. The best time to shop for seafood, though, is really during the colder months when it’s at its tastiest.

Ceramic and earthenware goods are typical of the Algarve’s more traditional wares and make great souvenirs. The small village of Porches, just off the EN125 between Alcantarilha and Lagoa is famed throughout Portugal for its ceramics. Porches Pottery has an outstanding array of cups, mugs, plates, saucers, pots and vases for sale.

The Algarve has splendid citrus fruits, especially oranges. Some of the biggest, sweetest and juiciest can be bought from the simple roadside stalls scattered around inland towns and villages, especially near Silves.

Thecataplana is one of the Algarve’s most characteristic copperware goods. It is used for cooking stews and is shaped like a wok, with a snap-down concave lid. The best can be bought in Loulé, notably at Barracha Artesanato, next to the market.

Despite the glossiest of brochures and the slickest of advertising, nothing sells a restaurant menu better than word of mouth. It’s the best recommendation you can have, especially if it’s from someone you know. Some restaurants trumpet their menu choice without taking too much care about the ingredients. Take time to ask around rather than settling for the nearest. The listings within this guide are the author’s recommendations.

When it comes to sardines, they are best eaten during the summer months. This is when they are firm and at their plumpest. The fish must be charcoal-grilled the same day they are caught to ensure optimum flavour.

For a quick, inexpensive meal, simply order theprato do dia (dish of the day) from the menu, whatever it happens to be. Locals often ask for theprato do dia , and it often proves to be the best choice – invariably wholesome, probably cheaper than the rest of the menu, and served up with little delay.

If you’re not too hungry but would still prefer a meal to a snack, ask for ameia dose ormini-prato (half portion). Most restaurants are happy to oblige. This is also a good option for children.

When you ask forcerveja (beer) you’ll get a lager. To order draft beer, ask foruma imperial (small beer) oruma caneca (large). If you prefer a bottle, orderuma garrafa de cerveja . The two top brands are Super Bock and Sagres; the latter also brewscerveja preta , the nearest you’ll get to a brown ale.

Tipping depends on how much you enjoyed the food and the quality of service. Between 10 per cent and 15 per cent of the total bill is usual.

The sliced bread, glistening olives and tuna fish paste that land on your table before the meal begins in earnest is listed ascouvert on the menu. You should decline the offer and send them back if you don’t want them. Then check that they haven’t been included in the final bill, which occasionally happens as an honest mistake.

The choicest wines are those with the descriptionreserva a garrafeira on the label. Expect to pay more for these wines and those of vintage quality.

No-smoking areas in Portuguese restaurants are very rare, and lighting up between courses is quite usual. This can be annoying for non-smokers, so it’s best to ask for a window seat or, if the weather is fine, choose to sit on the terrace if that is an option. Non-smokers booking by telephone should enquire if there is a no-smoking section of the restaurant.

Banking hours are 8:30am–3pm Monday to Friday. Monday mornings tend to be busy, so if you have bank business to attend to get there early.

Look for the desks markedcâmbios to change travellers’ cheques. Banks charge up to €12.50 commission, exchange bureaux about €5. Travellers’ cheques can also be changed at hotels and guesthouses, but check the charges first, as they vary considerably.

A far easier way to obtain funds is via an automatic teller machine (ATM). Visa, AmEx, Access/Mastercard or similar can be used to withdraw cash in euros, and most machines have instructions in several languages. Look for the bluemultibanco sign.

Major credit cards are widely accepted in the main towns, but always ask if in doubt and make sure your brand of card is accepted. In rural areas, however, it’s best to carry cash.

Post offices open weekdays 8.30am–6pm. The branch in Faro, on Largo do Carmo, is also open on Saturday mornings. There are two services:Correiro normal andCorreiro azul . The former is for ordinary post and airmail, and red post boxes should be used for such mail.Correiro azul is the priority/express service and uses blue post boxes.

Post office

Telephone cards (cartão telefónico ) are widely available from post offices, shops and newsagents. The only drawback to the cards is that it is difficult to ascertain how many units you have left.

You can rent a mobile phone (telemóvel ) at Faro airport and many other outlets. Look for the Telecel office in the main terminal building. A refundable deposit of €350 is required, and you pay only for calls you make.

Dial 118 and the operator will ask you in Portuguese what number you require. Though most operators speak English, ask your hotel for assistance if you don’t speak Portuguese.

The Algarve has its very own English-language radio station. Tune into Kiss FM (101.2 fm) for news and flight bulletins, weather reports, commercials and some pretty good music.

To contact the emergency services dial 112 (toll-free). Most operators speak at least two foreign languages, usually including English.

There are three main hospitals in the region: Faro district hospital, Portimão and Lagos. All towns have acentro de saúde (health centre) that can deal with less serious medical problems.

Citizens of the EU are entitled to free emergency treatment if they possess an E111 certificate, or equivalent, and a valid passport. Visitors from elsewhere should ensure they have adequate health insurance for emergency medical care and extra cover if they plan to indulge in adventurous sports, such as surfing, diving or horse riding.

In Portugal,farmácias (pharmacies) are easily identified by their green cross sign. These are found everywhere in larger towns but are not so abundant in rural communities. Usually very well supplied, many have English-speaking staff and sometimes German, Spanish and French speakers in the resorts. There’s always a pharmacy open late; look for the list of late-night services posted on pharmacy windows.

Safety flags fly over the beaches throughout the summer and should not be ignored. A green flag means it’s safe to swim; a yellow one urges caution and a red flag indicates that it’s unsafe to enter the sea.

With near cloudless skies, there’s a very real risk of serious sunburn, so be sure to use a sunscreen lotion that’s strong enough for your skin type. The sun is fiercest between noon and 3pm, when it’s best to seek out a parasol or shady beachfront café.

Drink plenty of water! Tap water is safe. There’s also a vast choice of bottled mineral water –com gaz (fizzy) andnaturale (still). In midsummer, aim to drink around two litres a day.

Petty theft is increasingly common in the Algarve, so take a few sensible precautions, such as not flaunting expensive watches and cameras, and never leaving valuables unattended. Avoid leaving personal items in the car, even in the boot – hire cars are easily recognized by would-be thieves.

Always carry some means of identification with you and have car documents to hand when driving. Failure to produce identification if stopped by the police may result in a hefty fine, even if you are blameless in all other respects.

For some spectacular bargains, visit in January and February. Although many places are closed for the winter, prices for accommodation can be as much as 50 per cent less than in peak season.

This is the cheapest option in the Algarve, but you must use official campsites. There are dozens of these along the coast and quite a few inland. Prices do rise during the high season, but you can still expect to pay only around €5 per adult per night for a small tent. Unfortunately, many campsites close in low season.

If you’re eligible, staying in youth hostels is another inexpensive option, although there are no single room rates and prices can creep up in the summer. There are five hostels in the Algarve: Alcoutim, Vila Real de Santo António, Faro, Portimão and Lagos. If you don’t already have a Hostelling International card from your national hostel association you can obtain a “guest card”. Advance booking is essential in summer.

Local tourist offices can sometimes provide a list of homeowners renting outquartos (private rooms), with shared facilities, at very reasonable rates. It is also possible to rent the occasional beach hut on a strictly temporary basis. Again, the tourist office may be able to help. Otherwise look out forquarto signs in windows, on notice boards etc.

Popular youth-card schemes such as Euro<26 and Go25/IYTC allow card holders good discounts on a wide range of attractions and services, including travel, museum and cinema tickets.

Senior citizens aged 65 and over heading for the Algarve are eligible for a 50 per cent discount on weekday rail travel using thecartão dourado (senior card), which can be purchased at ticket counters. Note that discounted tickets can only be purchased at certain main-line stations and cannot be used on suburban commuter trains at rush hour.

Whenever possible, eat where the locals eat. It may be no more than a ‘hole-in-the-wall’ taverna, and the fare may be presented without finesse, but the food will be much cheaper than opting for a beachfront restaurant. Theprato do dia (dish of the day) is usually the cheapest on the menu.

While hitch-hiking may cost next to nothing, it’s not recommended in Portugal. The Portuguese have an ambivalent attitude towards hitchhikers. You may catch a lift within minutes or you may stay all day on the same spot. It’s much easier to use the cheap and efficient public transport. Another more sobering reason not to try and hitch-hike is the appalling road safety record held by Portuguese drivers.

Stocking up on empty beer bottles? If they’re Sagres or Super Bock take the empties back to the local supermarket (not the big hypermarkets) for a discount against your next “round” of the same brand.

Where possible, consider booking upmarket hotels online or through a travel agent. At many places you’ll get a cheaper rate. Portugal Hotel Guide has an online booking link, as does the Portugal Travel Guide.

Room rates plummet out of season but it’s still worth haggling over a price to determine the bottom line. This is especially so if you’re a family or a small group. After all, no hotel likes empty beds. You may also be able to conjure up a deal if you decide you want to stay longer than originally planned. Try and negotiate a “package” if the hotel isn’t expecting to fill up.

Children under the age of eight are entitled to 50 per cent discount in many hotels and guesthouses if they share their parents’ room. Enquire about this possibility before checking in. It’s also a good idea to see the room before accepting it.

Remember that if considering a golfing holiday in the Algarve, the main season is from November to March and early April. The region’s golf courses get very busy in December and again in late January, February and March. The hotels linked with golf courses offer their guests preferential green fee rates, which can save the dedicated golfer a considerable amount.

Wheeling Around the Algarve is an organization that sources suitable accommodation for people in wheelchairs. It also points out disabled-friendly restaurants and car-hire companies. The organization is run by David Player, himself a wheelchair user, and he personally inspects all properties recommended.

Throughout the low season it’s possible to rent accommodation on a long-term basis – anything up to six months. Apartments in villa complexes are a good option, as they tend to be bereft of life outside the summer season. The swimming pool may not be full, but the atmosphere will be peaceful. The best line of enquiry is through the tourism office nearest to your desired location.

Electricity is 220V, 50Hz, and plugs normally have two round pins. So bring an adapter for shavers, hairdryers etc.

Rooms in rural hotels invariably attract annoying flying bugs, especially mosquitoes. It’s a good idea to pack a slow-burning insect repellent coil and let it smoke for an hour or so before retiring to bed.

Direct-dial hotel telephone charges in Portugal are extortionate compared to those in the rest of Europe. Avoid them unless absolutely necessary.