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The Algarve guide

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by robertiain.
Faro Old Town

The biggest city in southern Portugal, Faro is the capital of the Algarve and an important centre of tourism, trade and commerce. Its historic quarter overlooks a pretty marina and the Ria Formosa. See Faro.

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Tavira

Nearly 40 churches endow this elegant riverside town with a romantic and disarmingly timeless air. The Gilão river glides effortlessly through the centre – a Roman bridge connects the two sides of one of the prettiest towns in the Algarve. See Tavira.

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Silves

Once the grandiose capital of the Moorish province of al-Gharb, Silves today is dominated by the ochre ramparts of its huge castle. Lush orange groves blanket the countryside. See Silves.

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Monchique

The Serra da Monchique rises 458 m (1,500 ft), enveloping the hillside town of Monchique and its neighbouring spa centre. See Monchique.

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Loulé

Loulé hosts a colourful weekly market and is a thriving centre for local handicrafts. It is also the gateway to the central hinterland and the Caldeirão mountain range. See Loulé.

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Lagos

A young, vibrant and carefree spirit imbues this resort. The nearby beaches, pocked with outcrops of sandstone rock, are spectacular. See Lagos.

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Parque Natural da Ria Formosa

One of the most important wetland zones in Europe, the park’s expansive lagoon, sand dunes and marshland are a sanctuary for a wealth of wildlife. See Parque Natural da Ria Formosa.

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Animals of the Ria Formosa

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Sagres

The supposed location of Henry the Navigator’s lauded school of navigation, Sagres sits on an isolated promontory pounded by the Atlantic. Dramatic views along the coast include the Cabo de São Vicente. See Sagres .

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Albufeira

This top holiday spot is the Algarve’s largest resort, boasting some of the most effervescent nightlife in Portugal. Generous beaches flank bustling esplanades brimming with cafés and trendy clubs. See Albufeira.

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A Tour of Villages
Morning

An ideal starting point for your drive is Loulé (see Central Region), on a Saturday morning to take advantage of the bustling market. An early start will ensure you get the best choice of the produce. Aim to get there about 9am and allow an hour for browsing the stalls.

Order a coffee in Café Calcinha, Praça da República, 67, before jumping in the car and heading west on the N270 to the village of Paderne, see Other Villages and Sights. If you want to visit the 12th-century Moorish castle, turn right before the village.

To reach the next village, Alte, double back and head towards São Bartolomeu de Messines, turning right at the N124. Alte is now signposted, and you’ll reach it within half an hour. Take time to explore this wonderful rural idyll.

Afternoon

Lunch should be savoured in Salir, a leisurely, 25-minute drive away. Try the Casa Pasto Mouro Bar, in Rua dos Muros do Castelo, below the castle ruins and with superb views of Rocha da Pena.

Continue east on the N124, driving through the Caldeirão mountain range before turning right onto the N396, back towards Loulé.

A signposted detour off this road will take you into the ancient hamlet of Querença ( Other Villages and Sights), with its whitewashed church and the Loja da Quinta, a wonderful little handicrafts store. Treat yourself to some local liqueurs before heading back to Loulé.

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A Tour of the West
Morning

Breakfast in Lagos ( Western Region) can be enjoyed at the café inPraça Infante Dom Henrique near the castle walls, before you set out to explore the west coast.

The drive follows the EN125, crossing the boundary of the Parque Natural do Sudoueste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina. The road winds on – via the tiny 14th-century chapel of Nossa Senhora da Guadalupe and the prehistoric sights of Vila do Bispo– to Sagres ( Western Region) and its landmark 17th-century fort.

For an invigorating walk and to further appreciate the seascape at Sagres, follow the path around the promontory.

By now, it should be time for refreshments at Café-Restaurante Cochina on Praça da República or, if you prefer something more substantial, the Restaurante Atlântico on Rua Comandante Matoso.

Afternoon

Sagres has a pretty harbour which can be investigated on foot. Perched on a bluff overlooking the fishing boats are the ruins of Fortaleza da Baleeira which can be reached by turning up onto the dirt track off the roundabout near the quay.

No trip to the west coast would be complete without a visit to Cabo de São Vicente ( Western Region) which is a short drive northwest. The clifftop vistas are truly awe-inspiring and a suitably dramatic way to end the day’s sightseeing.

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A Ruína, Albufeira

Seafood crams the chalked-up menu. ThePargo (sea bream) androbalo (sea bass) are particularly good.

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A Drive to Alcoutim
Morning

A morning’s drive north out of Castro Marim on the EN122 will take you through undulating hills, and lush valleys to the banks of the River Guadiana.

Allow a leisurely hour to get to Alcoutim. Ignore the sign for the town, which looms on your right just before Odeleite. (That will be the road for the return journey.) Instead, carry on past the Barragem de Odeleite, a huge shimmering reservoir, and snake past many hamlets until the junction at Cruzamento, where Alcoutim is signposted.

Refresh yourself at any one of Alcoutim’s cafés hugging the central Praça da República. Alternatively, O Soeiro, at the bottom of Rua Município, has an outside terrace near the quay.

Afternoon

After lunch, consider a mini-excursion to Spain. The local Portuguesebarqueiro (boatman) will take passengers across the river to Sanlúcar, the mirror image of Alcoutim. An equally agreeable Spaniard will ferry you back when you’re ready.

The drive back to Castro Marim, via the 507, is one of the most inspiring routes in the Algarve, along the bank of the Guadiana. Call in at the little Museu do Rio in Guerreiros do Rio ( Inland Villages), to find out about local life.

After Foz de Odeleite the road heads back to the hills before joining the EN122 and arrowing south.

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A Day in Évora
Morning

Begin at the Praça do Giraldo and wander up Rua 5 de Outubro towards the Sé (cathedral). Look out for the 14th-century carved Apostles flanking the portal and, once inside, climb to the treasury to see the 13th-century ivory figure of the Virgin.

Adjacent to the cathedral is the Museu de Évora, where a dazzling 16th-century Flemish polyptych,Life of the Virgin , can be found upstairs.

On the opposite side of the square are the granite Corinthian columns of the Templo Romano– the best-preserved Roman monument in Portugal.

From here, retrace your steps back to Praça do Giraldo for lunch or a coffee at Café Cozinha de Santo Humberto.

Afternoon

Take Rua da República, on the eastern side of Praça do Giraldo. A few minutes’ walk brings you to Praça 1 de Maio lorded over by the huge 16th-century Manueline-Gothic Igreja de São Francisco.

The church’s principal draw is the Capela dos Ossos (Chapel of Bones). The skeletal remains of some 5,000 monks line the walls and columns of the chapel. An inscription above the entrance reads, “Nós ossos que aqui estamos, pelos vossos esperamos” (“We bones that are here await yours”).

Time to rest, maybe back at one of the cafés on Praça do Giraldo.

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“Ilha” do Rosário, Silves

A serene circular walk which partly follows the course of an irrigation ditch (levada ) and two rivers. The 8-km (4-mile) path begins at the Mira-Rio restaurant on the N124 where it picks up thelevada before heading towards the “Ilha” do Rosário viewpoint. The path then veers through lush, open countryside and skirts a tiny hamlet, Vale da Lama, before meeting the restaurant again.

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Alcantarilha

Known for its gruesome bone chapel, with the skeletal remains of 1,500 former parishioners completely covering the ceilings and walls.

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Alcoutim

The town’s 14th-century castle keeps one timeworn eye on its townsfolk and the other on the old adversary, Sanlúcar, Alcoutim’s mirror image on the Spanish side of the River Guadiana. The silence here is palpable, interrupted only by the chiming hour and the rattle of stork bills as they chatter to one another from church towers and chimney stacks.

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Alcoutim

Enjoying a lovely setting, Alcoutim commands glorious views across the River Guadiana and the Spanish town of Sanlúcar. Built in the 14th century, it was here that the short-lived peace treaty between Fernando I and Henrique of Castile was signed on 31 March, 1371.

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Alte

The town’s cobbled streets, colourful window frames and cheerful chimney pots invoke an unhurried air that is quite disarming. Alte’s church retains a fine portal and is situated near a leafy square. The spring running along its flank tumbles under an old mill, providing a favourite picnic spot.

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Alte

Described as “a delightful snapshot of the real Algarve” in many a tourist brochure, Alte is indeed a picture of beauty and serenity. The little village with its whitewashed façades, filigree chimney pots and rural charm appears to have little time for the 21st century, but always greets visitors with a warm handshake and ready smile. The central attraction is the fonte picnic area near the stream. The area is also renowned for its handicrafts and colourful folklore.

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Luz de Tavira

It’s one of those villages you normally drive through on your way somewhere else. But stop off to view the south door of the local church. The highly ornate portal is one of the loveliest examples of Manueline architecture in the Algarve.

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