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The western Algarve (Barlavento) blends a precipitous Atlantic coastline with a verdant Mediterranean interior. The wild, windblown promontories associated with the legend of Henry the Navigator yield to forest-clad hills and cloud-tipped mountains. Some of the region’s most spectacular beaches nestle on the south coast under outcrops of ochre-splashed rock. Others lie west to greet the surf that thunders onto the sand at the “end of the world”. Underpinning the wonderful environmental fabric is a rich historical thread of Baroque churches and Manueline chapels, stark sea defences and baffling Neolithic monuments. Visitor attractions abound, with quaint restaurants in hushed villages waiting to be discovered, while lively resorts brushed by palm-lined avenues sway to a more cosmopolitan flavour.
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Morning
Breakfast in Lagos ( Western Region) can be enjoyed at the café inPraça Infante Dom Henrique near the castle walls, before you set out to explore the west coast.
The drive follows the EN125, crossing the boundary of the Parque Natural do Sudoueste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina. The road winds on – via the tiny 14th-century chapel of Nossa Senhora da Guadalupe and the prehistoric sights of Vila do Bispo– to Sagres ( Western Region) and its landmark 17th-century fort.
For an invigorating walk and to further appreciate the seascape at Sagres, follow the path around the promontory.
By now, it should be time for refreshments at Café-Restaurante Cochina on Praça da República or, if you prefer something more substantial, the Restaurante Atlântico on Rua Comandante Matoso.
Afternoon
Sagres has a pretty harbour which can be investigated on foot. Perched on a bluff overlooking the fishing boats are the ruins of Fortaleza da Baleeira which can be reached by turning up onto the dirt track off the roundabout near the quay.
No trip to the west coast would be complete without a visit to Cabo de São Vicente ( Western Region) which is a short drive northwest. The clifftop vistas are truly awe-inspiring and a suitably dramatic way to end the day’s sightseeing.
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Choose from seven different meats, all chargrilled on a hot stone.
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A rural gem with fine traditional cuisine, including succulent pork knee roast. See Restaurants.
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The humble ruins of a 10th-century Moorish castle stand sentinel-like over a higgledy-piggeldy collection of whitewashed houses and café-restaurants that constitute the village of Aljezur. A steep, cobbled path leads up to the timeworn but sturdy castle walls and the splendid view beyond. This riverine area was once a breeding ground for malaria-carrying mosquitoes, and in the 18th century some of the villagers were persuaded to relocate to Igreja Nova, Aljezur’s “modern” counterpart to the east.
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A lively gypsy troupe trundles into Aljezur on the third Monday of every month with an extraordinary array of clothing, household items and foodstuffs at bargain prices.
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Dating back at least 5,000 years,menhirs stud the area around the village of Vila do Bispo. See Western Region.
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A stunning range of hand-made jewellery fashioned out of gold, silver, mother-of-pearl and precious stones.
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Jolly open-air antiques market and handicrafts fair on the fourth Sunday of every month.
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The huge, man-made lake 10 km (6 miles) north of Lagos is a wonderful place to unpack the picnic hamper. In spring, fields of orchids nestle under delicate umbrellas of almond blossom, with butterflies flitting from bloom to bloom. Towering eucalyptus encroach upon the lakeside, and the woods are a favourite haunt of red foxes and wild boar. The higher ground north of the dam is generously wooded with cork oak, and it’s from this area that the best views of the lake can be enjoyed.
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Opt for the terrace during fine weather for a wholesomeal fresco treat in idyllic surrounds.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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