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Downstairs, people are tucking in to good, basic food; upstairs, they’re shoulder to shoulder around the bar. Order a beer and you’re instantly part of a no-nonsense neighbourhood bar atmosphere, with just a touch of merry mayhem, and everyone aiming headlong at a good night out.

Unusual for Amsterdam, a late-night bar, on one of the prettier, quieter canals in the Jordaan.

Like many Catholic churches in Amsterdam, De Krijtberg (meaning Chalk Mountain) is known by its nickname rather than its official name, Franciscus Xaveriuskerk (after St Francis Xavier, a founding Jesuit monk); designed in 1884 by Alfred Tepe, it replaced a clandestine Jesuit chapel. It’s an impressive building, with an elegant, twin-steepled Neo-Gothic façade and an ornate interior that stands in marked contrast to the austerity of the city’s Protestant churches.

Waiters in long white aprons glide beneath crystal chandeliers at the grandest of grand cafés, in the heart of Amsterdam’s night-life district. The glassed-in balcony is a great late breakfast spot and things hot up at night on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays with a live DJ.

Once through the door, you leave the hurlyburly of the Nieuwe Zijde behind and enter a calm oasis redolent of the 19th century. Spacious rooms with empire furnishings are the epitome of plush.

A lively “light brown”eetcafé , serving international food with a Dutch twist. The menu changes regularly depending on what is available in the market. Try their cheese fondue made with fullbodied Amsterdam cheese.

Originally built for a ship’s captain and within hailing distance of the Amstel, an otherwise traditional interior has been given a dose of 1960s retro. Rooms in the De Munck are airy and clean, and there is both a bar and a garden.

A family-run Indonesian restaurant serving good-value, creative meals with plenty to tempt the vegetarian pallet.

A low-key, easygoing neighbourhood bar – locals read the papers at the big table by the window. A great place to recover from a hangover on a Sunday (breakfast is served until 1:30pm).

Just two minutes from the Filmmuseum, this charmingtraiteur is ideally placed for picnicking in the park. Delicious quiches, pasta, salads and soup, with vegetarians particularly well catered for. Plus a choice selection of wine.