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Start at Westerkerk, perhaps climbing its tower for a bird’s-eye view of the area. Work your way north to picturesque Brouwersgracht.

The “Jordaaners” are fiercely proud of the accordion-laden oompah songs unique to this area. Over one weekend mid-September, outdoor stages are set up on this filled-in canal, and the beer and bellowing flow freely.

This picturesque district (see Jordaan)makes an ideal setting for a low-key early-autumn festival. The local talent comes out of the woodwork for contests on Westermarkt, and there are concerts, street parties and fairs – like the one devoted to food in Noordermarkt (see Jordaan Festival).

In the Netherlands, a staggering 14 kg (31 lb) of cheese per person is consumed each year. Gouda and Edam are the best known, but there are others, such asFriese nagelkaas , a clove cheese which became popular when spices were first imported in the 17th century.

Born in 1921, Karel Appel was one of the founders of the Cobra movement, started in 1948, which combined expressionist, abstract and surrealist influences (see Cobra Museum). His colourful works display a savage, forceful directness combined with an almost childlike optimism. “I paint like a barbarian in a barbarous age”, he said.

Great location, rooms for up to four people and budget prices sound like a pipe dream, but this welcoming hotel at the station end of the Keizersgracht has them all – and a bar and restaurant to boot.

Throughout spring, but climaxing in mid-April when the tulips flower, a drab coastal strip between Leiden and Haarlem bursts into colour. Among these commercial bulbfields is the wooded Keukenhof park, the showcase for Dutch bulbs, a dazzling and unforgettable sight between late March and late May.

With its modern take on the brown bar style, this large bar is one of the best watering-holes in the Pijp. Imaginative world cuisine.