Amsterdam has an appeal that is absolutely unique. It’s a vibrant place, a treasure-trove of extraordinary artistic riches, and the living embodiment of 900 years of history, during which it rose to become the centre of a huge global empire. After a period of decline, it matured into today’s relaxed and tolerant modern metropolis. Elegant and serene, Amsterdam also has its seamy side, and this too is part of its character, as much as its famous network of canals. Whatever you are looking for, this small city packs a big punch.
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Wealthy merchant banker Willem Eggert donated his orchard as a site for this Gothic church, as well as a large sum of money for its construction. It was consecrated to Our Lady and St Catherine, but has only ever been called the Nieuwe Kerk – to distinguish it from the Oude Kerk. When the town hall became the royal palace in the early 19th century, it was given the new, elevated title of national church of the Netherlands, and has been the setting for the coronation of every Dutch monarch since then.
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This vast open square has been a marketplace since the 15th century, and is still the scene of a Sunday antiques market in summer. Alone in the middle stands the bulky Waag (1488), bristling with turrets. The eastern gate in the city’s defences, it was originally called St Antoniespoort. In the 17th century it became a weigh-house and home to numerous guilds, including the surgeons’. It was here that Rembrandt painted his famousAnatomy Lesson of Dr Tulp , now in the Mauritshuis, The Hague. There were few problems acquiring bodies for dissection, since public executions took place in the Nieuwmarkt.
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Start at the entertainment hub, Leidseplein, before moving to the bright lights around Rembrandtplein. Wind down at the junction of Reguliersgracht with Herengracht, where you can see no less than 15 romantically lit bridges. Continue to Amstelkerk, finishing in Utrechtsestraat, with its many appealing cafés and restaurants (see Tujuh Maret, Bars in Eastern Canal Ring, Restaurants in Eastern Canal Ring).
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A free-entry lounge club with a plush, carpeted interior – complete with armchairs. It’s open daily, and delightfully decadent, although the drinks are a little on the pricey side.
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IT wizards, followers of fashion, advertising executives and other representatives of hip, young Amsterdam crowd in to the place that set the trend for the new lounge bar scene. Rub shoulders with all of the above as you knock back the drinks or slurp up Japanese noodle soup before heading off to party the night away somwhere else (see Noa).
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Canalside chic is reinvented at this New York-style lounge bar, with champagne, cocktails and couches to kick back in. The food is hip, but sometimes it misses.
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This late-night restaurant is the ultimate in decadent dining. Kick off your shoes and lounge on mattresses while food is served to you from bronze platters. DJs enhance the Arabian experience at weekends.
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In stark contrast to its peaceful surroundings, Jan Wolkers’ Auschwitz memorialNever More features a slab of shattered glass. The fragments reflect a distorted view of the heavens, mirroring the damage done to humanity by the Holocaust.
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Hendrick de Keyser’s last church, begun a year before he died in 1621 (its completion was supervised by his son Pieter), is quite different in style. Built for the poor of the Jordaan, it is an austere brick building with only the shortest of spires. Designed on a Greek Cross plan, it has a central pulpit and four hipped roofs.
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There has been a market on this site since 1627 – a fact you can contemplate as you fight over the bargains with the die-hard clubbers who arrive here after a night out, or with the locals who come for a more civilized Monday-morning rummage. Unbeatable for second-hand clothes and accessories (see Noordermarkt).
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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