Amsterdam has an appeal that is absolutely unique. It’s a vibrant place, a treasure-trove of extraordinary artistic riches, and the living embodiment of 900 years of history, during which it rose to become the centre of a huge global empire. After a period of decline, it matured into today’s relaxed and tolerant modern metropolis. Elegant and serene, Amsterdam also has its seamy side, and this too is part of its character, as much as its famous network of canals. Whatever you are looking for, this small city packs a big punch.
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One of the most genial places in the city, this small square lined with cafés, bars and bookshops is generally quiet during the winter, but in summer, it bursts into life at lunchtime and again in the evening, when people spill out onto the pavement from bars. Cheek by jowl with university buildings, Spui has traditionally been a place where intellectuals gather to drink and debate. There is also a Friday book market. During the Provo riots of the 1960s, the square was the scene of political protests and demonstrations, during which Carol Kneulman’s twee statue of an urchin,Het Lieverdje (Little Darling) was frequently daubed with slogans. At No. 18, Café Hoppeis a landmark brown café, in business for more than 300 years.
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Hanneke cooks fresh produce she’s bought from the markets that day, and serves you from her open kitchen. One of the city’s best kept secrets.
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Dedicated to the patron saint of seafarers, the church was commissioned by the congregation ofOns’ Lieve Heer op Solder (see Museum Amstelkring). A C Bleys, the architect, came up with a Neo-Renaissance building.
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This Neo-Renaissance building – both of whose predecessors burned down – houses the city’s municipal theatre. Local groups as well as visiting companies tread the boards here. It’s also host to the annual Julidans (July Dance) Festival. Regular English-language performances take place in the upstairs Bovenzaal.
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Amsterdam has an excellent integrated network offietspaden (cycle lanes), with white lines, cycle signs and dedicated traffic lights.
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A cheap, kind of cheerful hostel right on the edge of Vondelpark near Leidsplein. Modern lounge and really great value bar/restaurant, with both small and large (up to 20 bed) dorms.
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Devoted to modern art from the mid-19th century to the present day, this invigorating museum is undergoing a total renovation. Until it reopens in 2008, works will be on display at the old TPG Post building (Ooster- dokskade 3, ).
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At time of writing, the national museum of modern art, in its specially designed building by A W Weissman, is closed for major renovation work – it is due to reopen in 2008. Until then, part of its dynamic collection, which includes works by Matisse, Chagall, Picasso, Mondriaan, de Kooning and Gerrit Rietveld, will be displayed in temporary exhibitions at the old TPG Post building, Oosterdokskade 3 (see Stedelijk Museum).
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Common from 1600 to 1665, this gable has steps on both sides: Huis op de drie Grachten has three (see A Day in the Oude Zijde).
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Don’t copy the locals, who frequently jump red lights and ride on sidewalks.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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