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This remarkable museum represents all aspects of Judaism and the history and culture of the Jews who settled in the Netherlands. On show are some marvellous paintings by Jewish artists, fascinating displays about the diamond industry, and exhibits that bring home the true horror of the Holocaust(see Joods Historisch Museum).
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Important playwright and poet (1586–1679) famed for his ornate style. Author ofGijsbrecht van Amstel .
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Quirky and characterful, with an intimate, easy-going atmosphere all its own, the Jordaan is a dense patch of small-scale streets and canals peppered with interesting shops and galleries, charminghofjes and inviting brown cafés. Bounded by Prinsengracht and Lijnbaansgracht to east and west, and Brouwersgracht and Looiersgracht to north and south, it was built for workers at the same time as the Grachtengordel.
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Born in 1921, Karel Appel was one of the founders of the Cobra movement, started in 1948, which combined expressionist, abstract and surrealist influences (see Cobra Museum). His colourful works display a savage, forceful directness combined with an almost childlike optimism. “I paint like a barbarian in a barbarous age”, he said.
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Eclectic world music/theatre performances are appropriately staged in the theatre of the city’s tropical museum (see Tropenmuseum). Some world cinema is also to be had – though double-check the language the subtitles are in!
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Supported by a staggering 13,659 wooden piles, Jacob van Campen’s Classical building occupies one side of Dam Square. Designed as theStadhuis (town hall), it was transformed into a Royal Palace in 1808 by King Louis Bonaparte. Although it is still used for official functions, such as the wedding reception of Crown Prince Willem-Alexander in February 2002), the present royal family live elsewhere. The interior is breathtaking (see Koninklijk Paleis).
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It is hard to believe that the magnificent Carré Theatre, superbly set beside the Amstel, was built at break-neck speed in 1887 to house Oscar Carré’s circus. A copy of his other circus in Cologne, it has a fine Neo-Renaissance frontage, some splendid ironwork, and is decorated appropriately with the heads of clowns and dancers. Today, it hosts pop concerts, dance shows, lavish musicals, and even the occasional circus.
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For dream canal houses in pristine condition, look no further than sophisticated Leidsegracht, one of the city’s most sought-after addresses. At Herengracht 394, on the corner with Leidsegracht, notice the fine wall plaque depicting characters from a medieval legend – the fourHeemskinderen on their horse Beyaart. Another plaque, at No. 39, shows Cornelis Lely, who drew up the original plans for draining the Zuiderzee.
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The city’s tourist hub. Sophisticated it is not, tacky and fun (and, at night, often raucous) it is, especially in summer, when buskers and street performers, from family pop groups to lone fire-eaters, keep the milling throngs amused. Despite its rambling, dog-leg shape, Leidseplein is a natural gathering place, packed with fast food stalls, cafés and smoking coffee shops. Nightspots De Melkweg, Paradiso, and Holland Casino are close at hand, while for a more reflective diversion you can play chess on a giant outdoor chessboard in adjacent Max Euweplein, or stroll in the tiny Leidsebos park.
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If the smart shops of the Spiegelkwartierare too expensive and rarified, try searching for more affordable antiques in this warren of stalls occupying a vast network of ground-floor rooms in a block of houses near the Looiersgracht (tanners’ canal). Taken together, this is the largest collection of art and antiques in the Netherlands. The stall-holders have a lively community spirit, hosting bridge sessions which are open to all.
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