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The splendid Neo-Classical façade of this building comes as a surprise on gabled Keizersgracht. Designed in 1787 by Jacob Otten Husly as a science and arts centre (the name Felix Meritis means “happiness through merit”), it flourished until the late 19th century. Later, it became headquarters of the Dutch Communist Party (CPN), and in the 1970s was home to the avant-garde Shaffy Theatre Company. Today, it houses the European Centre for Arts and Sciences – its arts complex and Summer University courses mean it is always humming.

The elegant Louis XIV-style Frankendael is the last survivor of an enclave of exclusive early 18th-century houses, which were built south of Plantage Middenlaan on reclaimed land called the Watergraafsmeer. Although closed to the public, the ornamented façade and the fountain, made by Ignatius van Logteren, are worth seeing. However, the rear gardens are open to the public, and offer a peaceful – if slightly untidy and overgrown – refuge of shrubs and ancient trees.

Much loved for his technique of capturing character and fleeting expression in his sitters, Frans Hals (1580–1666) brought a new realism to portraiture in the 17th century. His fine group portraits of civic guards are displayed in the Frans Hals Museum in Haarlem.

An effective politician, William of Orange’s youngest son (1584–1647) becameStadhouder in 1625.

Novelist (b.1923) strongly influenced by his Catholicism and his homosexuality.

Satirical poet and playwright (1585–1618), best known forDe Spaanse Brabander .

So named because of the concentration of wealth amongst its first residents, this stretch of the Herengracht between Vijzelstraat and Leidsestraat feels grand but bland, unless you pick out eye-catching details as you stroll. Look out for Louis XIVstyle No. 475, said to be Amsterdam’s most beautiful house; and No. 476, elegantly restyled in the 1730s and topped with an eagle. No. 497 is open to the public, but you have to like cats: it’s the Kattenkabinet, a unique museum devoted to cats in art. Be careful not to trip over one of the many feline attendants.

Gerrit van Arkel’s eyecatching 1905 building is a fine example ofNieuwe Kunst , the Dutch version of Art Nouveau. Built for an insurance company, it is now the world headquarters of the environmental campaigner Greenpeace.

In recent times, the bustling streets of this stalwart residential neighbourhood have seen the arrival of all manner of shops, mixing bric-a-brac withhaute couture , New Age with funky furniture and specialist food with local groceries. On Haarlemmerstraat is Westindisch Huis, once the headquarters of the Dutch West India Company. To the west is Haarlemmerpoort, a gateway – now converted into flats – built in 1840 for the entry of William II. Beyond it lies peaceful Westerpark, and Westergasfabriek, former gasworks turned arts centre.