Amsterdam’s three great canals, Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht, are at their most impressive in this central section of the Grachtengordel, which culminates in the stretch known as the Golden Bend, where the wealthiest Amsterdammers built stately houses in the 1660s. Designed and decorated by the best architects of the day, such as Philips Vingboons, the mansions built here were often twice the width of standard canal houses. Nowadays, many of these buildings are occupied by institutions. In contrast, the intimate cross-streets that run between the three canals, known as De Negen Straatjes (The Nine Streets) enticingly display the city’s talent for creative retail. Another magnet for shoppers is Metz & Co, which provides a bird’s-eye view of the whole area from its top-floor café. Cutting through this elegant district is the main thoroughfare, Leidsestraat, which culminates in the brash and lively entertainment hub, Leidseplein. Architectural highlights include the Paleis van Justitie and the American Hotel.
For more on canal tours See Unexpected Sights on a Canal Tour and Canal Tours-
Leidseplein’s most famous landmark is this one-off Dutch interpretation of Art Nouveau by Willem Kromhout (1902), which foretold the Amsterdam School of architecture. Only the exterior is of interest: the interior is as bland as any other chain hotel (in this case, Crowne Plaza). The exception is the hotel’s famous Café Americain, with its stainedglass windows and glass parasol lampshades. The literati who once inhabited it may have disappeared, but it’s a welcome haven from the rigours of Leidseplein.
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American-style freshly-baked cookies and cheesecake, freshlys-queezed juices and (rare in Amsterdam) decent-sized cups of coffee.
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Where can you find the best bread in Amsterdam? At this organic baker’s outlet, selling a delicious range of wholemeal bread and croissants, pizza, tofubroodjes and sugar-free oatcakes.
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Forget the nearby Häagen-Dazs parlour – ice cream never tasted this good.
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Far lovelier than the Golden Bend is the stretch of Herengracht between Huidenstraat and Leidsestraat, particularly Nos 364–70, four houses built by Philips Vingboons in 1662. Two of them house the Bible Museum, where apart from biblical artifacts you can admire the early-18th-century interior.
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Inexpensive, informal and Indonesian – head here after most of the city’s restaurants have gone to bed.
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Fantastic veggie restaurant with a young cook that does wonders.
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A wonderful selection of beautiful, handbound books and albums, printed and marbled wrapping papers, and inks in all colours.
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One of the smarterproeflokaalen (tasting houses) in the city – and unlike the rest, it closes late. Collapse on the couches and knock back the potent liquors andjenever .
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For cheese with a capital C, try “The Cheese Chamber”, where there are over 200 different kinds of one of Holland’s best exports. If it isn’t here, it probably doesn’t exist.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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