Oude Kerk
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The city’s oldest monument and first parish church stands on the site of an early 13th-century wooden chapel that was destroyed by fire. Rebuilt as a small stone hall church in the 14th century, over the years it expanded into a mighty Gothic basilica, now in the heart of the Red Light District. The interior is stark, stripped of its Catholic treasures during the Iconoclasm of 1566, but it boasts some exquisite stained glass, rare ceiling paintings and a world-famous organ. It is dedicated to St Nicholas, patron saint of the city.
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1. Great Organ
With its eight pairs of bellows, magnificent oak-encased pipework, marbled wood statues and gilded carving, the great organ is a glorious sight. Built by Christian Vater in 1724 and renovated by Johann Caspar Müller 14 years later, it is known as the Vater-Müller organ.
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2. Maria Kapel
The most stunning stained glass is in the three windows of the Lady Chapel. All date from the 16th century; two show scenes from the Virgin’s life, above the customary picture of the family who donated the window.
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3. Ceiling
The massive wooden vaulted ceiling is claimed to be the largest in Western Europe, but it was only during restoration work in 1955 that the beautiful 15th-century paintings were revealed.
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4. Saskia’s Grave
Among the great and the good buried here is Saskia van Uylenburgh, Rembrandt’s first wife, who died in 1642. Her grave is number 29K in the Weitkopers Kapel.
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5. Red Door into the Old Sacristy
Rembrandt passed through this door to announce his marriage. “Marry in haste, repent at leisure” is inscribed above it.
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6. Decorated Pillars
Relics of the period before 1578, these pillars once supported niches for statues of the Apostles destroyed in the Iconoclasm, and were painted to look like brocade, since the real thing was too expensive, and unsuited to the humid atmosphere.
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7. Misericords
The 15th-century misericords helped choristers take the weight off their feet. They are decorated with charming carvings illustrating traditional Dutch proverbs.
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8. Spire
From the graceful late-Gothic spire, built by Joost Bilhamer in 1565, there are splendid views over the Oude Zijde. The tower contains a 47-bell carillon, a 17th-century addition which rings out every Saturday afternoon.
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9. Stained Glass of the Burgemeesters
The colourful stained glass windows flanking the chancel depict the arms of the city burgomasters from 1578 to 1807. One was designed by De Angeli in 1758; the other by Pieter Jansz in 1654.
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10. Little Organ
Attractively painted shutters form the original casing (1658) – however, the pipework was replaced in 1965. Tuned as it would have been before 1700, early music can now be part of the repertoire.
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