Begun in the early 17th century, the Grachtengordelwas extended further east to reach the Amstel in the 1660s, making new plots of land available for wealthy merchants to build their luxurious if sober town houses. Among the highlights of the area are two such patrician mansions, the Museum Van Loon and the Museum Willet-Holthuysen. Medieval Amsterdam is recalled at the Munttoren, whose base was once part of the Regulierspoort, a gate in the city wall; by contrast, you can see the modern city in full swing in lively Rembrandtplein, formerly a butter market. There are diverse opportunities for shopping among the antiques of the Spiegelkwartier, at the colourful Bloemenmarkt, and at vibrant Albert Cuypmarkt; or you could catch a movie at Abraham Tuschinski’s extraordinary 1921 cinema, now lovingly restored and offering six screens. And to refresh the parts that other beers may or may not be able to reach, you can visit the original Heineken Brewery for a guided tour and a free beer.
Check out new photography museum Foam at Keizersgracht 609.-
Simply the best record store in town; new and secondhand.
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Cypress Hill and The Roots have joined the boisterous baggy brigade at Amsterdam’s small but legendary hip hop bar. These days, the hip hop is melted down with anything from funk to disco.
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A corner-located, split-level designer bar popular with a young arty crowd. Great atmosphere and friendly staff.
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This husband and wife team offers a huge range of mid 16th-to mid-20th-century prints, including a remarkable selection of Japanese woodblock prints.
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Decorative Dutch tiles, Blue Delftware, antique books, prints, pewter, candlesticks and lamps.
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The décor leaves a little to be desired, but the fresh food at this Assyrian café makes it perpetually popular. A favourite haunt of revered (and feared) Amsterdam food critic Johannes van Dam.
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Morning
On a fine stretch of the Amstel River, dainty Magere Brug makes a good spot to begin. Walking north, follow the river’s curve, pausing at Amstel 104 and its equally crooked neighbours. Reaching Munttoren, wander along the Bloemenmarkt, then head down Reguliersbreestraat, where you can check your email at easyEverything (No. 22) before checking out the incredible Tuschinski Theatre a little further along the street.
Chic Utrechtsestraat, with its appealing selection of restaurants, cafés, delicatessens, boutiques and galleries, is perfect for both shopping and lunch. The best Indonesianrijsttafel in town is served at Tujuh Maret.
Afternoon
From Utrechtsestraat cross to Amstelveld, where the wooden Amstelkerk lends a countrified air, and Reguliersgrachtintersects picturesquely with Prinsengracht. Make your way along Prinsengracht, cross Vijzelstraat, and dive into Weteringbuurt. On the other side of Prinsengracht, admire elegant Deutzenhofje (Nos 855–99), erected in 1695 for destitute women.
From here, it’s only a short walk to the Museum Van Loon , or a little further to Museum Willet-Holthuysen , after which you can wind down with a drink in jolly Rembrandtplein. Best cafés are Schillerand De Kroon.
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A testament to taste, this decorative arts shop was featured in an issue ofWallpaper * not so long ago.
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Purveyors of fine contemporary art.
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The biggest draw to Heineken’s former brewery, which ceased production here in 1988, must be the free beer at the end of the tour (if you are over 18). On the way, you will learn the story of Holland’s most famous brewery, walk through the brewhouse with its huge copper stills, and visit the stables. The dray horses here are still to be seen carting beer, but only for publicity purposes.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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