Central Amsterdam has more than enough to keep any visitor occupied, but if time permits, it’s certainly worth taking the trouble to explore the outskirts, where a diverse selection of sights is on offer. Football fans will want to make a beeline for the city’s stunning new stadium, Amsterdam ArenA, home of legendary soccer club Ajax. There are fascinating exhibits on view at the Cobra Museum, the Tropenmuseum and NEMO. If you are interested in architecture, make sure that you see the innovative 1920s buildings of the De Dageraad housing estate. If it’s peace and quiet you want, there are several choices, including the small, historic town of Ouderkerk aan de Amstel – older than Amsterdam itself – and the wide open spaces of Amsterdamse Bos. The city’s excellent transport system makes all these sights easily accessible, and some of them are not far from the centre – or from each other.
Catch the Electrische Museumtramlijn at Haarlemmermeerstation (No.16 tram from Centraal Station).- Page
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Morning
You don’t have to take children to enjoy this suggested day out, but it will appeal to them if you do. It’s wise to phone the Ajax Museum in advance, to check on its tour times.
Start by taking tram 9, 10 or 14, or bus 22 to the Tropenmuseum , where you can take a whistlestop tour of the developing world. Afterwards, have an exotic lunch in the museum’s lush café-restaurant, Ekeko, and don’t forget the shop, with its range of ethnic gifts.
Afternoon
Walk along Linnaeusstraat, leaving Oosterpark on your right, and turn left along Domselaerstraat to find Muiderpoort Station. Catch one of the frequent stoptreins in the direction of Utrecht for the 9-minute ride to Bijlmer Station to visit the Amsterdam ArenA. The Ajax Museum and its guided tour of the stadium will fill your afternoon.
If you want to extend your trip into the evening, consider taking a short bus ride (Nos 174 or 175) from Bijlmer station to the picturesque village of Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, with its waterside cafés and restaurants.
If it’s a Sunday between April and October, you may prefer to take a day trip to Amsterdamse Bos (and perhaps to the Cobra Museum at Amstelveen), using the Electrische Museumtramlijn to get you there and back.
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Football fans will want to pay their respects to the brilliant Ajax club at their impressive new stadium, Amsterdam ArenA. Visit the interactive museum, which brings the club and its greatest moments to life, and tour the state-of- the- art 50,000-seat stadium. There are usually six tours a day in summer, four in winter, except on event days; phone ahead for times.
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This welcome green space to the south of the city has a rose garden, a maze and an art gallery for adults, as well as pony rides, farm animals and a miniature steam train for children. Best of all, at the southernmost tip of the park, is the well-preserved De Rieker windmill. Built in 1636, it was a favourite of Rembrandt, whose statue stands nearby. Now a private home.
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Just a short bus, oldfashioned tramor bike ride away, this attractive woodland park makes a wonderful contrast to the city. Laid out on reclaimed land in the 1930s with the dual purpose of creating jobs for the unemployed and providing more recreation space, the park has woods and meadows, lakes and nature reserves. There is plenty to do: hire bicycles, go boating, eat pancakes, visit the bison and the goats and the Bos Museum, which describes the park and how it was built.
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This museum of modern art in residential Amstelveen is dedicated in part to the influential Dutch movement conceived in 1948. Its founders, including Dutchman Karel Appelamalgamated the names of their home cities – Copenhagen, Brussels and Amsterdam – to create its name: CoBrA. They wanted to promote art that was spontaneous and inclusive, and were inspired by the work of primitives, children and the mentally ill. Paintings in the permanent collection are shown in changing thematic displays, augmented by temporary exhibitions. The light, spare building, by Wim Quist, opened in 1995.
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A housing estate seems an unlikely tourist attraction, but the complex built for the De Dageraad (Dawn) housing association from 1918–23 is well worth a visit – especially for anyone interested in the Amsterdam School of Architecture. Piet Kramer and Michel de Klerk designed sculptural buildings of great originality, with tiled roofs that undulate in waves, and brick walls that billow and curve. The project was part of an initiative chargeto provide better housing for poorer families, in the wake of the revolutionary Housing Act of 1901.
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The elegant Louis XIV-style Frankendael is the last survivor of an enclave of exclusive early 18th-century houses, which were built south of Plantage Middenlaan on reclaimed land called the Watergraafsmeer. Although closed to the public, the ornamented façade and the fountain, made by Ignatius van Logteren, are worth seeing. However, the rear gardens are open to the public, and offer a peaceful – if slightly untidy and overgrown – refuge of shrubs and ancient trees.
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These former docks, outposts of the Eastern Islands, have been the subject of intense development and renovation in the last decade, in response to the city’s need for new housing. They are now considered trendy places to live, and designer home shops, boutiques, restaurants and cafés are springing up. They are most easily reached by the two bridges from Oostelijke Handelskade.
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The most arresting feature of this interactive science and technology centre – the largest in the Netherlands – is the building itself. Designed by Renzo Piano, its harbour location (in the Eastern Islands) gave the impetus for a green copper structure resembling a vast ship. The great views from the top deck will certainly appeal, even if the hands-on games, experiments and demonstrations, designed to entertain and educate both children and adults, do not.
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There was no church in town until 1330 (see Oude Kerk), so people came instead to this picturesque riverside village to worship at the 11th-century Oude Kerk that stood here until it was destroyed by a storm in 1674. Convivial waterside cafés and restaurants are the chief lure these days, but you can also walk in the wooded garden of an 18th-century house, Wester Amstel, and visit an unexpected site: the Beth Haim Jewish cemetery. Amsterdam’s Jews have been buried here since 1615, when they were forbidden burial in the city.
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