The streets of the Oude Zijde (old side) are packed with historic and beautiful buildings, though many are buried in the seediest parts. As the name suggests, this is where Amsterdam has its roots; the city grew from a ribbon of land on the eastern bank of the Amstel between Damrak and Oudezijds Voorburgwal (which means “before the city wall”). Today, the Oude Zijde incorporates the medieval city, built around the Oude Kerk, and the area to the east, where development started in the 15th century and continued over the following two centuries to accommodate Jewish émigrés. An area of richness and contrasts, within its boundaries lie the Nieuwmarkt (dominated by the Waag, a 15th-century city gate turned weigh-house), the university quarter, Chinatown, the Red Light district, and what remains of the old Jodenbuurt, where four former synagogues have been combined to form the superb Joods Historisch Museum.
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Morning
As the Oude Kerk does not open until 11am, start your day with a tour of the Museum Amstelkring . Although in the Nieuwe Zijde, it is only a few steps from the Oude Kerk , which you can visit afterwards. Then walk to Nieuwmarkt for a break at In de Waag (Nieuwmarkt 4), where you can sit outside in summer and watch the bustle of the square.
Afterwards, make your way to Oudezijds Achterburgwal for the Hash Marijuana Hemp Museum. Then follow the main drag of the Red Light district , Oudezijds Voorburgwal, as far as Café Rouxfor lunch.
Afternoon
Walk down to peaceful Grimburgwal and the House on the Three Canals. Agnietenkapel (now closed) is a few doors away. From here, head east to Oudezijds Achterburgwal and cut through Oudemanhuispoort (stone spectacles mark the entrance), browsing through the second-hand bookstalls as you go. Continue to Jodenbreestraat and the Museum Het Rembrandthuis . After your tour – if it is a Monday, Wednesday or Friday – pop into Pintohuisfor a glimpse of the painted ceiling. Revive yourself in Café de Sluyswacht. From here there is a lovely canalside walk, past the Montelbaanstoren. Turn left and stroll along Binnenkant before heading back to your hotel.
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Toys, gadgets and games with an animal theme. From squirting fish to cuddly bars and rubber ducks that glow in the bath.
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Those in the know flock here for the tastiest Thai in town. Eat in their spacious restaurant or duck out to their snackbar opposite for a more informal, utterly authentic experience.
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An absolute treasure in the heart of the Red Light District, this Mediterranean restaurant should be savoured for hours.
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This store sells a huge range of gorgeous printed and embroidered silks, linens and cottons, imported from all over the world.
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A huge, hilarious range of (mostly) novelty condoms guaranteed to spice up the most jaded of love lives.
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In 1544, the nuns at this cloister started making beer, a tradition that was revitalized a few years ago – and there’s a fine restaurant.
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Rembrandt sketched this leaning former lock-keeper’s house. There’s a peaceful canalside terrace at the back.
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Built 1603–11 by Hendrick de Keyser, painted by Monet in 1874. Climb to the top for great views.
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This nun-run Chinese Buddhist temple takes pride of place on this otherwise junkie-riddled street. Take a respectful peek one afternoon (you can keep your shoes on), or dine at their adjacent vegetarian restaurant.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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