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Amsterdam’s canals – in particular, the elegant ring of three 17th-century canals known as the Grachtengordel – are its defining feature (see Canals and Waterways).

A haven of peace, the Begijnhof was built as a refuge for the Beguines, a lay Catholic sisterhood. Amsterdam’s oldest house is here (see Begijnhof).

This vast open square has been a marketplace since the 15th century, and is still the scene of a Sunday antiques market in summer. Alone in the middle stands the bulky Waag (1488), bristling with turrets. The eastern gate in the city’s defences, it was originally called St Antoniespoort. In the 17th century it became a weigh-house and home to numerous guilds, including the surgeons’. It was here that Rembrandt painted his famousAnatomy Lesson of Dr Tulp , now in the Mauritshuis, The Hague. There were few problems acquiring bodies for dissection, since public executions took place in the Nieuwmarkt.

The oldest church in Amsterdam has been altered and extended over the years, producing a heavenly jumble of architectural styles from medieval to Renaissance (see Oude Kerk).

This world-famous yet movingly simple museum is dedicated to the young diarist who hid here from the Nazis with her family (see Anne Frankhuis).

The world’s greatest collection of 17th-century Dutch art is housed in this grand municipal art museum – and there’s so much more to see besides (see Rijksmuseum).

Amsterdam’s organic Saturday “farmer’s market” is a treat rather than a routine shopping trip. Cruise the stalls to the accompaniment of some fine busking and sample free goats’ cheese and other goodies – plus freshly-baked bread, flowers and a fabulous fungi selection.

Built between 1895 and 1899, this magnificent building – once derisively dubbed “postoffice Gothic” by its critics – was designed by Cornelis Hendrik Peters (1874–1932) to house Amsterdam’s head post office. Now a shopping mall, around 40 diverse stores are located over its four floors. There are two cafés.

Amsterdam’s famous floating flower market – the stalls still float, but now they are permanent (see Bloemenmarkt).

If the smart shops of the Spiegelkwartierare too expensive and rarified, try searching for more affordable antiques in this warren of stalls occupying a vast network of ground-floor rooms in a block of houses near the Looiersgracht (tanners’ canal). Taken together, this is the largest collection of art and antiques in the Netherlands. The stall-holders have a lively community spirit, hosting bridge sessions which are open to all.

Decorative Dutch tiles, Blue Delftware, antique books, prints, pewter, candlesticks and lamps.

At this kitsch and colourful culinary store you’ll find everything from jam spoons and tablecloth saris to olive oil and iced tea – plus gadgets and gismos to suit every cook’s pocket.

By the entrance to the Noorderkerk, a stillflourishing Protestant church, a sculpture commemorates theJordaanoproer (Jordaan riot) of 1934, in which seven people died during demonstrations against cuts in unemployment benefits. Today the tranquil surrounding square, a market site since 1627, comes to life during the Monday flea market and the Saturday bird market andboerenmarkt , selling organic produce.

This bakery with seats inside is an ideal spot for breakfast, lunch or high tea – but beware, it can get crowded.

Sometimes there’s no alcohol at all, just tea, coffee and more calories than you’d care to mention.

A culinary delight in the heart of the Nine Streets. Healthy soups, salads and sandwiches by day; the perfect pasta by night.

Aficianados of kitsch will love the style of this perfectly pink restaurant. Ask for the corner mattress when booking, or a table with its own water fountain.

Sip a champagne cocktail on the canal-side terrace, or show off your latest designer wear to the fashionable crowd inside one of Amsterdam’s most popular cafés. Piles of magazines and intriguing artworks help while away the time (see Het Land van Walem).