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Beware pickpockets in crowded places like Centraal Station, the Red Light District, Damrak and Leidseplein. Never keep money in your back pocket, or leave your handbag exposed. At night, avoid the junkieriddled fringes of the Red Light District, especially around sleazy Zeedijk, as well as the area around Nieuwendijk between Damrak and Spuistraat.

Bicycle theft is rife in Amsterdam. Some are stolen for profit, others on the principle that “someone stole mine, so I’ll steal someone else’s”. Always secure both front wheel and frame to an immovable object with a U-shaped lock.

EU nationals are entitled to receive dental and medical treatment in the Netherlands at a reduced charge. To cover this, British visitors should bring a form E111, available from post offices. It is also sensible to take out private travel insurance before you leave, to cover medical emergencies and repatriation (see Security and Health).

It’s a strange paradox that the famously houseproud Dutch should put up with fouled streets in their capital city (other towns and cities are much cleaner). A few years ago the problem was dire; it’s much better now, but you still need to look where you walk.

If you lose property at Schiphol Airport, call020 601 2349. For items left on a train, call030 235 3923, 9am–5pm Mon–Fri. For trams, buses or the metro, call020 460 5858, 9am–4:30pm Mon–Fri.

Amsterdam’s enlightened attitude to soft drugs should not be misconstrued. “Coffee shops” are the only places where buying and using small quantities of soft drugs is tolerated. Elsewhere – in the street, or in other bars and cafés – smoking is frowned on.

As the expression “going Dutch” indicates, Amsterdammers will usually share the bill in a restaurant. If you dine at someone’s home, bring a small gift such as flowers or chocolates for the host. Try not to annoy cyclists by walking in cycle lanes. Though most Amsterdammers speak excellent English, a few words in Dutch will go down well. In the Red Light District, don’t cause offence by taking photographs of the prostitutes in their windows.

Summertime heralds the arrival of these irritating insects, attracted to the canal waters. Arm yourself with the repellent and bite creams of your choice.

Though there are (albeit very public) men’s conveniences on some streets, women are very poorly provided for. Instead, it is acceptable practice to head for the nearest bar or café. You might buy a drink in return, but usually you are not obliged to. Public toilets in stations and museums are staffed by attendants who insist on a tip in a saucer.

Amsterdam is busy all year round, but especially from April to September, when you should book up your accommodation well before you plan to visit. Canal cruises and other tours should be booked on arrival. Places like the Rijksmuseum and Anne Frankhuis attract long queues. Arrive early in the day, or late, if visiting the Anne Frank Huis, and in the case of the Rijksmuseum, use the back, Hobbemastraat entrance until 2008.