For many, the Western Canal Ring is the area of Amsterdam that perfectly encapsulates the city’s relaxed yet stylish air. Construction of the Grachtengordel, Amsterdam’s 17th-century ring of three fashionable canals, began here, with the marshy area just beyond reserved by city planner Hendrick Staets for workers and their unpalatable industries; Huguenot refugees who settled here – like others fleeing religious persecution – were said to have named itjardin (garden), later corrupted to Jordaan, and today it is one of Amsterdam’s most fascinating – and bohemian – districts. Its narrow streets and oblique canals might seem random, but they followed the course of old paths and drainage ditches. North of the charming Brouwersgracht lies the recently revitalized district of Haarlemmerbuurt, and, further afield, the Western Islands, Bickerseiland, Prinseneiland and Realeneiland, created in the mid-17th century to provide much-needed warehousing.
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Undoubtedly one of the most charming restaurants in the area. Delicious, well-priced vegetarian (and vegan) food with a wicked dessert selection.
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Unusual for Amsterdam, a late-night bar, on one of the prettier, quieter canals in the Jordaan.
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A lively “light brown”eetcafé , serving international food with a Dutch twist. The menu changes regularly depending on what is available in the market. Try their cheese fondue made with fullbodied Amsterdam cheese.
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A stylish and popular brown bar-restaurant for those with discerning tastebuds. Not your usual “pub grub”.
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Slow service, but infinitely worth it for the huge portions of delicious vegetarian food. House wine is the only alcohol served.
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Vintage frames specialist selling a fascinating selection of eyewear dating from the 1800s onwards. If it’s shut, just check out the window display.
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Release the inner gypsy in this small, busy tapas bar in the Jordaan. Authentic atmosphere, value for money, and regular live music. Olé!
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One of a handful of typically Jordaan boutiques in this area – with a trendier edge than most.
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Morning
Beat the queues and be first to arrive at the Anne Frankhuis , which opens at 9am. Afterwards, you could take a contemplative walk along Prinsengracht to the Western Islands, perhaps first climbing the tower of Westerkerk . On the way, drop in on two peacefulhofjes , Zon’s and De Star . For refreshment, visit Papeneiland, a tiny brown café founded in 1642, at the junction of Prinsengracht and Brouwersgracht.
On the Western Islands, stroll round Prinseneiland and along Zandhoek on Realeneiland, where you could lunch very well at De Gouden Reael (Zandhoek 14). If you are with children, visit Dierencapel, the children’s farm on Bickerseiland.
Afternoon
En route to the Jordaan, hardened shoppers will first want to stop in Haarlemmerbuurt, with its mix of shops, both smart and tatty. Don’t miss a peak at over-the-top Café Dulac (Haarlemmerstraat 118), and the world’s narrowest restaurant, De Groene Lanteerne (Haarlemmerstraat 43).
Spend a couple of hours exploring the endlessly picturesque Jordaan, then join today’s breed of young Jordaanese in one of the trendy cafés around Noordermarkt – Finch or Proust, or the wildly kitsch Café Nol in Westerstraat. If it’s dinner time, head for De Reiger, the locals’ favouriteeetcafé .
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This small but popular watering-hole on the edge of a scenic square can get decidedly crowded. In summer, the hip local clientele spills out onto the square.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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