For many, the Western Canal Ring is the area of Amsterdam that perfectly encapsulates the city’s relaxed yet stylish air. Construction of the Grachtengordel, Amsterdam’s 17th-century ring of three fashionable canals, began here, with the marshy area just beyond reserved by city planner Hendrick Staets for workers and their unpalatable industries; Huguenot refugees who settled here – like others fleeing religious persecution – were said to have named itjardin (garden), later corrupted to Jordaan, and today it is one of Amsterdam’s most fascinating – and bohemian – districts. Its narrow streets and oblique canals might seem random, but they followed the course of old paths and drainage ditches. North of the charming Brouwersgracht lies the recently revitalized district of Haarlemmerbuurt, and, further afield, the Western Islands, Bickerseiland, Prinseneiland and Realeneiland, created in the mid-17th century to provide much-needed warehousing.
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Don’t let the tattoos, piercings and grunge factor put you off. This huge bar has a great atmosphere and some unusual beers on tap, too.
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The perfect place to rest those weary feet. Hole yourself up for the afternoon in the secondfloor window seat.
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This hip, white, minimalist establishment serves a Mediterranean-inspired menu alongside sandwiches and salads.
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Tabac used to be a brown café but has recently succumbed to the lounge trend. Locals notice, visitors may not.
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Two fine buildings house the Theatermuseum. Its entrance is at No. 168, the austere Neo-Classical White House designed in 1638 by Philips Vingboons and topped by Amsterdam’s earliest neck gable. The museum extends into Nos 170–72, known as Bartolotti House, designed by Hendrick de Keyser in 1617 with a contrastingly flamboyant Renaissance façade, its curved appearance cleverly reflecting the canal bend on which it stands. The frothy 18th-century stuccoed and painted interior of the White House is worth the visit alone.
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Despite its quiet location and deceptive size (it’s huge inside), this superb Italian restaurant gets quickly booked up. The cooks create delicious dishes from an open kitchen.
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An exacting climb to the top of the soaring tower of Westerkerk, a landmark close to the heart of every Amsterdammer, rewards you with a thrilling view (see Westerkerk Tower). Designed by Hendrick de Keyser and completed in 1631, its austere interior is unadorned, except for the ornate organ and its lively painted shutters. A memorial to Rembrandt reminds us that he was buried here, although the precise burial site is unknown. Outside the church, notice the poignant, diminutive statue of Anne Frank and Homomonument, the pink granite triangle which commemorates persecuted homosexuals.
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Despite being very much part of the city, the man-made Western Islands have a remote, bracing quality. Comprising Bickerseiland, Prinseneiland and Realeneiland, they were created in the early 17th century to accommmodate shipyards and warehouses. In recent years, large-scale development has taken place, and modern housing now co-exists in harmony with white wooden drawbridges. Don’t miss Zandhoek on Realeneiland, with its row of charming 17th-century houses, or atmospheric Prinseneiland with its boatyard and old shuttered warehouses.
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These two delightfulhofjes are close to one another on Prinsengracht. At Zon’s Hofje, a stone plaque depicting Noah’s Ark is a clue that it was built on the site of a clandestine church known by that name. The De Star – officially Van Brienen – Hofje is named after a brewery that stood on this site. Merchant Jan Van Brienen is said to have built it in gratitude for his release from a vault in which he had accidently been locked.
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Over 130 types of Dutch beer (many from small, local breweries) are served at this specialist bar – with several on tap. On the last Sunday of each month, sample 10 different kinds in their informal tasting sessions.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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