The diverse and politically semi-autonomous region of Andalucía has a population of some 7 million and embodies what is thought of as typically Spanish – an accurate portrait of the place and its people must include the bullfight, flamenco, gypsies, remote white villages, high sierras and mass tourism on endless stretches of beach. The memories you take with you after a visit here will be colourful, joyous, intense and deeply stirring.
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In remote hills and mountains gypsies escaped Christian persecution by turning caves into homes. Although flooding and other natural mishaps have decimated these communities in recent decades, many gypsies return to their former dwellings to perform lively and authentic flamenco shows for visitors.
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The main town in the Sierra Norte is a steep cluster of white-washed houses. It’s a popular place for weekend getaways by sevillanos and particularly known for producing some of the area’s famous anise-based tipples. Just 3 km (2 miles) outside of town is the magnificently situated former Carthusian monastery, now restored as part hotel, part arts centre with gallery.
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Simple whitewashed cubes cluster around a citadel here, while birds of prey overhead remind you that this is the south-western entrance to the Sierra de Cazorla. The town’s position made it a prize for Moors and Christians, hence the castle in town and the ruined La Iruela, 1 km (0.5 miles) away.
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At the end of the fight, a band plays, roses are tossed, hankies are waved, and the matador may be carried out on his men’s shoulders.
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The place to buy the famous Triana pottery. In operation since 1870, this shop sells everything from replicas of 16th-century tiles to ashtrays. Similar workshops can be found on Calle Covadonga.
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Ceramics come in almost as many styles and forms as there are towns – items as diverse as traditional azulejos (glazed tiles), botijos (double-spouted pitchers) and Hispano-Moorish lustreware. Most tend towards the Islamic style but many carry on the European tradition of depicting scenes from daily life or myths.
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This elegant establishment is built inside an ancient Moorish hammam (baths). It’s a pleasant stop, with an excellent view of La Giralda (see Seville Cathedral & La Giralda).
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Mushrooms sautéed with garlic are a standard item on tapas menus. Other popular vegetable dishes include judias (green beans), particularly good stewed with tomatoes and garlic, and escalibadas (aubergines/eggplants) served in a salad that also features pimientos (green peppers).
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The French writer’s 1826 novel The Last of the Abencerrages was a bestseller.
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Goat’s and sometimes sheep’s milk are used to make most local cheeses.
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