The diverse and politically semi-autonomous region of Andalucía has a population of some 7 million and embodies what is thought of as typically Spanish – an accurate portrait of the place and its people must include the bullfight, flamenco, gypsies, remote white villages, high sierras and mass tourism on endless stretches of beach. The memories you take with you after a visit here will be colourful, joyous, intense and deeply stirring.
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Another choice with a youthful atmosphere, this disco features go-go dancers and live acts. Summer nights are brightened up by international DJs who come to spin the latest sounds.
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Starting to the east of Córdoba, in the attractive hill town of Montoro, this drive follows the river downstream. West of Córdoba, visit the once-fabulous Medina Azahara, enjoy the view from the castle walls at Almodóvar del Río, and end at Palma del Río.
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A route along some of the region’s most panoramic coastline. Nerja is built up on cliffs, and as you approach Almería City the views are dramatic (see Almería City & Around).
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The attraction of this drive is the pueblos blancos (see Pueblos Blancos) along the way, in particular Grazalema, Zahara and Arcos de la Frontera. You can also include the Roman ruins at Ronda la Vieja, and a sidetrip to Olvera.
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This wild sweep of the Costa de la Luz is the best of the Atlantic shore. Expect immense cliffs, mammoth sand dunes and a scattering of rather subdued resorts. The villages of Bolonia, with its ancient Roman sites, and Vejer de la Frontera, which is steeped in Moorish heritage, both make excellent sidetrips.
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This zone comprises scores of villages and hamlets, many perched on the slopes of the Sierra Nevada. Begin at Lanjarón, then head for the market town of Órgiva. Continuing eastward, the landscape becomes more arid; eventually you’ll come to Yegen, made famous by Gerald Brenan’s autobiographical South from Granada .
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Two nicknames for this town, in the plains east of Seville, render a clear idea of its chief glory and its biggest challenge. “The Town of Towers” refers to its 11 Baroque belltowers, all adorned with glazed tiles. “The Frying-Pan of Andalucía” is a reference to its searing summer temperatures, due to the fact that it’s one of the few towns not built up a hill. Écija’s archaeological museum is worth a visit.
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Eggs are essential in tortilla (see Tortilla Española and Patatas Bravas) or come hard-boiled as a garnish.
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This is a small country house hotel, situated within easy reach of Granada, the coast, Antequera and Cordoba. It has beautiful distant views, and is about 10 minutes from the small town of Alhama de Granada. The owners, Sally and Jeff, are warm and welcoming and have a huge amount of local knowledge. If you're energetic, you can swim in their immaculate pool, borrow their mountain bikes (free) or simply walk. Follow up your exercise with a long soak under the stars in the large jacuzzi. The hotel is beautifully designed, and is spotlessly clean. It's one of the friendliest places I've ever stayed at, and my view was clearly shared by the other guests.
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With another superb location on the cliff affording panoramic views of the sea, this place is a popular spot with photographers. The menu is eclectic, with the emphasis on steak and seafood.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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