The diverse and politically semi-autonomous region of Andalucía has a population of some 7 million and embodies what is thought of as typically Spanish – an accurate portrait of the place and its people must include the bullfight, flamenco, gypsies, remote white villages, high sierras and mass tourism on endless stretches of beach. The memories you take with you after a visit here will be colourful, joyous, intense and deeply stirring.
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If you plan on attending a romería (see Romerías) or any other local festival – or you just feel like taking home a bit of local colour – consider investing in some traditional flamenco paraphernalia. Embroidered silk shawls, ornate tortoiseshell combs and hand-painted silk and ivory fans are the top of the line, but there are plenty of more affordable versions. Synthetic shawls, these days often imported from China, wood or even plastic combs and paper and wood fans are all just as vivid.
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One of the very best places to find genuine flamenco gear is Jerez de la Frontera. Head for Calle del Flamenco.
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These take place during the summer months all around the region.
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Here you will find genuine flamenco at its impassioned best. The gypsy quarter of Santiago is the place to make for, where you will find a number of peñas (clubs), but don’t expect much before 10pm.
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A few of the names who advanced the art include: singers El Fillo and La Niña de los Peines; guitarist Paco de Lucía; and dancers La Macarrona and Carmen Amaya.
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Thursday mornings see this street come to life with a catch-all market that can net you anything from pure junk to a rare treasure.
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The simple fare that had existed prior to the Moorish incursion – centred around olives, wheat and grapes – gave way to a bounty of flavours. Almonds, saffron, nutmeg, pepper and other spices became commonplace in the region.
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This Moorish castle, crowning the hill above the town, is the chief attraction here. Created by Granada’s rulers in the 14th century, it incorporates 12th-century structures and earlier elements, since the strategically situated town dates from prehistoric times. After the Christian reconquest in 1341 (see The Sierra Nevada), additions to the fortress continued until the 16th century. The castle keep houses an archaeological museum (see Alcalá La Real).
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The great painter (1598–1664) spent most of his life in and around Seville, where his art adorns churches and museums. His works are noted for their mystical qualities, dramatized by striking chiaroscuro (light and shade) effects – hallmarks, as well, of his contemporaries Caravaggio and José de Ribera.
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Almost anything you can think of will turn up frito (batter-fried or sautéed), from fish to mushrooms.
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