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This is mayonnaise laced with a powerful dose of garlic and is served as a dish in its own right, for dipping bread into or as a condiment. Another popular relish is pipirrana , a compote made of tomato, onion and pepper.

Notwithstanding its poetic Arabic name (al-mariyat means “mirror of the sea”), this town has lost much of its appeal due to modern development. Still, it does have a most impressive 10th-century Alcazaba, one of the most massive of the extant Moorish fortresses, and an engaging old quarter that still seems North African in essence.

A 10th-century mosque, a castle and a bullring are all clustered on the citadel overlooking the village.

From a distance, this lovely pueblo blanco in Huelva Province looks like a sprinkling of snow amid the green of the surrounding forests. The citadel features one of the oldest mosques in the region, dating from the 10th century.

The village’s mosque is one of Andalucía’s finest, with great views from the minaret.

Almonds are used mainly in honey-based desserts. Fresh fruits include chirimoyas (custard apples), figs, pomegranates and persimmons.

Set in a 16th-century mansion, this is another great place to try traditional dishes, such as pechuga de perniz en salsa (part-ridge breasts in sauce).

The main resort on the Costa Tropical of Granada Province is a more relaxed alternative to the intensity of the Costa del Sol. The two central beaches are the Playa San Cristóbal and the Playa Puerto del Mar, separated by a headland. Good diving and wind-surfing spots can be found along here (see Almuñécar & Around).

The Costa Tropical is perhaps Spain’s most spectacular coast, where towering mountains rise from the shore. Almuñécar is the chief town along this stretch and it is now given over almost entirely to resort life. Yet it has an ancient heritage, dating back to the Phoenicians, and was an important port under the Moors. The intriguing Museo Arqueológico Cueva de Siete Palacios has a unique Egyptian vase dating from the 7th century BC (see Museo Arqueológico Cueva de Siete Palacios, Almuñécar).

Most of the works by Cano (1601–67) can be seen in Granada, largely because after he was accused of killing his wife the city vowed to protect him if he would work exclusively for them. Sadly, such a predicament limited the opportunities for this gifted painter, sculptor and architect to fully blossom.