The diverse and politically semi-autonomous region of Andalucía has a population of some 7 million and embodies what is thought of as typically Spanish – an accurate portrait of the place and its people must include the bullfight, flamenco, gypsies, remote white villages, high sierras and mass tourism on endless stretches of beach. The memories you take with you after a visit here will be colourful, joyous, intense and deeply stirring.
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Among Spain’s finest art repositories, it is second only to the Prado in Madrid for its range of great Spanish paintings. Housed in a former 17th-century convent, the collection focuses on the Seville School, led by Zurbarán, Cano, Murillo and Valdés Leal, including Murillo’s touching Virgen de la Servilleta . Don’t miss El Greco’s poignant portrait of his son and the polychrome terracotta of St Jerome by Florentine sculptor Pietro Torregiano, a colleague of Michelangelo’s.
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Housed in an exquisite former convent, this art museum is second only to Madrid’s famed Prado. Paintings include early works by Velázquez, important works by Zurbarán, Ribera, El Greco, Murillo, Valdés Leal and Vásquez.
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A Neo-Classical mansion houses Cádiz’s main museum, a rich juxtaposition of archaeological treasures and fine art. In Europe’s oldest city there are naturally artifacts from ancient cultures, including jewellery, pottery and small bronzes, but most notably a pair of 5th-century BC marble sarcophagi. Among the art are works by Zurbarán, Rubens, Murillo and Cano. An ethnological collection features artisanal pieces that highlight aspects of the city’s culture.
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One of the corridors of what is perhaps Spain’s most famous bullring is devoted to a Museo Taurino (Museum of the Bullfight). In addition to stacks of posters and other memorabilia, you can see the trajes de luces (suits of lights) – brightly coloured silk outfits embroidered with gold sequins – worn by many a celebrated toreador, along with portraits of some of the greats. There are also the inevitable stuffed remains of various noble animals (see La Maestranza).
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This offbeat museum celebrates the story and legend of the Serranía’s famous bandits and highwaymen. They were mostly active in the 19th century and managed to capture the imagination of many writers of the period, who portrayed them as romantic figures living a devil-may-care life in communion with nature. As the exhibits here will attest, they were anything but “diamonds in the rough”.
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This museum is located in a striking 18th-century ducal palace, which means that many of the exhibits simply cannot compete with the context. Two that do, however, are the life-size 1st-century AD Roman bronze representing a naked young man, possibly Ganymede, cupbearer to the gods, and a life-like carving of St Francis of Assisi, executed in wood by Pedro de Mena, a 17th-century Andalucían master (see Antequera).
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Newly opened, after years of planning and several setbacks, this is the world’s third largest museum dedicated to the modern master. It was endowed by his daughter-in-law, Christine Ruiz-Picasso, and her son Bernard with some 187 paintings, including some major canvases, that give an idea of the breadth and depth of his career (see Málaga).
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The archaeological lower floor has an interesting assortment of finds, but the 5th-century BC Iberian stone sculptures are truly extraordinary. Found near the town of Porcuna, in the western part of the province, they show clear influences from Greek works. Upstairs, the fine arts museum has some fine medieval wood sculpture and a Picasso drawing (see Jaén City).
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Sadly, the many depths of Granada’s talented native son – playwright, poet, artist, musician, impresario – were denied to the world when he was murdered at the age of 38 by Fascists at the beginning of the Spanish Civil War. His birthplace, in a village near Granada, has been turned into a museum devoted to his memory (see Federico García Lorca).
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The Moors can be credited with the development of the guitar, which they adapted from the four-stringed lute. The Middle Eastern musical forms they imported were also to have an effect later on flamenco (see Aspects of Gypsy Culture).
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