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Midway between a fino and an oloroso . The layer of flor yeast is allowed to die off, so it gets darker in colour.

Anchovies and sardines are often served lightly fried in batter, but can just as likely be offered marinated and preserved in oil, or with a tomato sauce. You generally eat them minus the head but with all the bones.

Capital of the sierra, this is an attractive town blessed with fresh air. The oldest town hall in the province offers information about the sierra.

Close to the Portuguese border, this town remains one of the best-preserved villages around. A wonderful oddity is the Museo del Santo Rosario, packed with rosaries that have belonged to Mother Teresa, John F Kennedy and General Franco, among others.

This is the Andalucían version of paella , an appellation that also appears on some menus. Saffron-flavoured rice is served with an assortment of fish and shellfish, which can include prawns, clams and squid. Unlike the Valencia variety, it does not generally include sausage or chicken. The dish is also known as arroz con mariscos .

This quarter, once home to Seville’s gypsies, was known for producing flamenco artists and bullfighters. It still creates fine ceramics (see Cerámica Santa Ana).

Cruz Campo is a local, Pilsner-type cerveza (beer) that is among Spain’s best.

Not only can you get the best of Andalucía’s vintages here, but there’s also a good selection of Spain’s finest, such as Ribera del Duero. Delicious tapas , too.

What distinguishes the wines here is two-fold. Giant terracotta containers (tinajas ) are sunk into the ground to keep the contents at a constant temperature, while the hot local climate ripens the grapes for a stronger wine (see Montilla).

This bodega was one of the first to realize the potential of the Zalema grape varietal for creating young wines.