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At the foot of an imposing stone outcropping and surrounded by the Parque Natural de la Sierra de Castril, this enchanting town dates back to Roman times. The parish church dominates the upper reaches, while down below there surges a mountain torrent.

To unequivocally establish Christian rule, these triumphalist structures were built by some of the greatest architects of the age and adorned with important works of sculpture and painting, much of it Renaissance. The towering, light-suffused interior of Granada’s cathedral is one of the most spectacular achievements of the period, while the façade, by Alonso Cano, echoes the ancient triple arch favoured by Roman emperors. The Capilla Real (Royal Chapel) is Granada’s finest Christian building and a repository of rare treasures, including a reja (gilded grille) by Bartolomé de Jaén, priceless crown jewels, and paintings by Roger van der Weyden and Sandro Botticelli (see Capilla Real and Catedral, Granada).

The main town in the Sierra Norte is a steep cluster of white-washed houses. It’s a popular place for weekend getaways by sevillanos and particularly known for producing some of the area’s famous anise-based tipples. Just 3 km (2 miles) outside of town is the magnificently situated former Carthusian monastery, now restored as part hotel, part arts centre with gallery.

Simple whitewashed cubes cluster around a citadel here, while birds of prey overhead remind you that this is the south-western entrance to the Sierra de Cazorla. The town’s position made it a prize for Moors and Christians, hence the castle in town and the ruined La Iruela, 1 km (0.5 miles) away.

This town, wonderfully rich in history and cultural importance, is also small enough to cover easily and enjoyably on foot. It has a delightfully contrasting mix of sights, from the architectural splendour of the great mosque – with a Christian church oddly sprouting out of its centre – to the whitewashed glories of the old Jewish quarter, the splendid Alcázar, and the frankly morbid museum dedicated to the bullfight. There are other engaging museums as well, featuring works of art by both Old Masters and local artists, and ancient artifacts evoking the area’s influential past.

This stretch of Atlantic coast, named after its characteristic bright light (luz ) and covering the area from Chipiona to Tarifa, is still off the beaten path despite recent attempts to exploit its wild loveliness. Part of what protects it are the prevailing winds, wonderful for windsurfers but wretched for sunbathers, who may have to face wind-tossed sands travelling at fairly high speeds. Still, there are excellent beaches that can be enjoyed, often backed by cliffs, and modest resorts, such as Chipiona, mostly frequented by Spaniards.

Still living up to its well-earned reputation as one of the world centres for sun, surf and cheap, superficial fun, this string of former Mediterranean fishing villages nevertheless retains more than at first meets the eye. To those who care to look beyond the brash tourist enclaves, there is still much authentic charm on offer here – and even a good share of places that offer the chance of tranquil reflection – especially in the towns of Estepona, Nerja, Mijas and ultra-classy Marbella. Year-round golf makes the whole area a great attraction for international lovers of the sport (see Costa del Sol Golf Courses) and, in high season in particular, Torremolinos is the place to find some of Spain’s liveliest nightlife.

Two nicknames for this town, in the plains east of Seville, render a clear idea of its chief glory and its biggest challenge. “The Town of Towers” refers to its 11 Baroque belltowers, all adorned with glazed tiles. “The Frying-Pan of Andalucía” is a reference to its searing summer temperatures, due to the fact that it’s one of the few towns not built up a hill. Écija’s archaeological museum is worth a visit.