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These wind-blown ruins were once the third largest city in the Roman empire, founded in 206 BC and home to some half a million people during the reign of Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century. He was following in the glorious footsteps of his predecessor Trajan, who was another Itálica native. There’s a huge amphitheatre to explore, as well as some fine mosaics amid the crumbling walls. Most of the wonders are still buried, however, while others have long since been quarried for their stone or moved to the Archaeological Museum in Seville (see Museo Arqueológico).
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This mountain eyrie of a place opens out onto 360-degree panoramas of the Cazorla highland. The best view is from the mirador above the cliff at the village’s northern edge.
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This modern provincial capital is set off by the dramatically placed ramparts of the mighty Castillo de Santa Catalina (see Castillo de Santa Catalina, Jaén City), originally Moorish, and the immensity of its double-towered cathedral by Vandelvira (see Capilla Real and Catedral, Granada). You can fully experience the castle and its spectacular views of the city and surrounding olive groves, as it now houses a parador (see Paradors). Another rewarding stop is the Museo Provincial, especially to see the country’s finest collection of 5th-century BC Iberian sculpture.
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The largest city in Cádiz province is synonymous with the production of “sherry”, which is simply a corruption of “Jerez” – itself a corruption of the original Phoenician name of Xeres (see Brandy de Jerez). Before that, it was part of the fabled Tartessian civilization (8th century BC). Sights include an array of religious edifices, various palaces and a rather academic archaeological museum. However, flamenco and horses also get the credit for bringing the city international fame. It has a renowned centre for equestrian art, Andalucían style, and is home to one of the largest remaining gypsy populations, a determining force in flamenco tradition (see Aspects of Gypsy Culture).
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Despite being home to the main airport bringing holiday-makers to the Costa del Sol, this provincial capital has been bypassed by the brunt of the “sun coast” development, and thus also by the swarms of foreign tourists. It has managed to hold onto its Spanish-ness quite admirably – despite recent attempts to bring it up to speed with the buzzing Costa lifestyle. An important trading port since ancient times, it was the favourite city of poet Federico García Lorca, who loved it for its rawness. But its even greater claim to artistic fame is that it was the birthplace of Pablo Picasso, a fact that has now, at long last, been acknowledged by the presence of a Picasso museum, the third largest in the world dedicated to the modern master (see Museo Picasso, Málaga). Málaga’s alcázar, built between the 8th and 11th centuries, includes a Roman amphitheatre.
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The building of the first palace here dates from AD 936, commissioned by Caliph Abd el-Rahman III, the Emir of Córdoba and the man who brought the city to glory. He named it after his favourite wife, Az-Zahra (the Radiant). Though it is little more than a ruin now – sacked in 1009 and rediscovered only in 1910 – at one time this pleasure-dome incorporated a zoo, ponds and gardens, baths, houses, weapons factories and barracks, markets, mosques, a harem of 6,000 women and accommodation for 4,000 slaves. Decorated with ebony, ivory, jasper and marble, it even had a pool of mercury that created dancing lights on the walls and ceiling.
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A lovely hill side village, 15 minutes drive from the centre of Fuengirola. The town has a number of restaurants and beautiful squares with plenty of shops for gifts for family and friends.
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The Wild West rides again at this old “spaghetti western” movie set. At show time the kids can see Jesse James reach his ignominious end (see Almería City & Around).
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Don’t let the austere exterior fool you – inside the church and sacristy of this Carthusian monastery lurk some of the most flamboyant Spanish Baroque architecture and detailing you’ll ever encounter. So busy are the arabesques, flourishes and excrescences of gilded and polychromed stucco that the architectural lines are all but swallowed up in ravishing visual commotion.
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This town is the centre of Córdoba’s wine-making region, where the word amontillado originates, meaning “in the style of Montilla”. The wine produced here is like sherry, but nuttier and more toasted – and since the region is hotter than around Jerez, the grapes ripen more intensely and the wines need no fortifying. You can taste the difference for yourself at Bodegas Alvear, Montilla.
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