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This hamlet is a hidden gem. It boasts a Roman pedigree, its medieval walls are largely intact, and it has one of the most impressive castles in the region – Moorish in origin but restored by the famed architect Andrés de Vandelvira, who was born here. He also designed several mansions for local nobility.
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Viewing rescued sharks, seahorses, seals, turtles and other sea creatures is a wonderful experience for kids. They will also love the Lost City of Atlantis, the Mediterranean Tunnel and the Touchpool.
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Tight clusters of old, square- edged white houses and churches, from a distance looking like a child’s building blocks, cling to the tops of lonely hills and crags across southern Andalucia, their whiteness and their red- tiled roofs picked out sharply in the fierce heat against a brilliant blue sky. These are the pueblos blancos, the “white villages”, all uniformly whitewashed in line with old Moorish tradition. The words de la Frontera in many place names refer back to the times when this was indeed the frontier between Christian and Muslim Spain, and these villages were built -by one side or the other- as semi- fortresses, huddled together for safety in locations that seem to defy all logic. Each village is a maze of narrow lanes that wind, climb and fall, their whiteness offset by vibrant red flowers. And, far below, is what is now called the Costa de la Luz, in recognition of its exquisitely clear light- a line of great, broad beaches facing the windy Atlantic and washed by crashing surf.
Much less well known than Spain’s Mediterranean coasts, this area nevertheless offers one of the most distinctive mixes of character and landscape anywhere in Andalucia. Its two main towns offer a complete contrast- Jerez de la Frontera, once a Moorish fortress, but long the capital of sherry and now filled with elegant bodegas that give it a special air of gracious living; and Cadiz, the oldest city in western Europe, a salty sea port with streets full of echoes of voyages of discovery. Just to the north across the River Guadalquivir is the Coto Donana, a vast expanse of wetland that is home to some of Europe’s rarest wildlife, including lynxes and flamingoes. Southwards, the long beaches run down to the old Moorish citadel of Tarifa. The meeting of the Atlantic and Mediterranean in the straits is also a prime feeding-ground for whales and dolphins, and a trip from Tarifa out to see them, with the mountains of Morocco as a backdrop, is an unforgettable experience.
Beyond all these attractions, the Costa de la Luz is also an ideal place just to relax. Beach towns like Zahara de los Atunes, “Of the Tuna”, are still fishing villages, and as you sample the local delicacies you can find an easygoing friendliness that often seems lost elsewhere.
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Spain’s tallest peaks – and, after the Alps, Europe’s second loftiest chain – make Andalucía home to some excellent skiing in winter, robust trekking in spring and summer, and a favourite with naturalists who come to marvel at the abundant wild-flowers and wildlife. For the more culturally inclined, the historic villages of the Alpujarras, on the dramatic southern slopes, are a fascinating study in an ageold way of life.
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Attractions at this theme park include a flamenco extravaganza and a Wild West show, but it’s really all about rides. None of them will particularly appeal to adrenaline addicts, but what it lacks in speed it makes up for in old-fashioned fun.
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Ignore the downtrodden outskirts as you approach this town – once you get to the historic centre you will realize that it is one of Andalucía’s most remarkable splendours. The keynote here is architecture – an entire district of mostly Renaissance edifices built for local nobility in the 16th century. One of Andalucía’s greatest architects, Andrés de Vandelvira, was the genius who gave most of these structures their harmonious forms (see Baeza and Úbeda).
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The far north of Córdoba Province is fertile grazing land for farm animals, as well as deer and wild boar. Most importantly, it is a “land of acorns”, densely clad with holm oaks and therefore a prime zone for raising the famed Iberian black pig. In October, the creatures are fattened up on acorns and their meat is elaborately cured to produce succulent jamón ibérico or pata negra , the local product rivalling that of Jabugo in Huelva Province.
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This inland village in Cádiz Province probably retains its quintessential Moorishness more than any other town in Andalucía. It stands gleaming white on a hill with a view of the coast, and its warren of maze-like alleys and byways is virtually indistinguishable from any North African town. Before the Spanish Civil War, women here wore a traditional veiled garment like the Muslim heshab , called the cobijado ; now they are only worn during August festival.
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This area offers a unique combination of open beaches, surf, wild landscapes, whitewashed hilltop villages, rich Andalucian culture and great cuisine. It is liveliest in high summer, so August is perfect, but it is not usually overcrowded.
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The town’s name means “flower” in Arabic and this quiet little hamlet lives up to its implications. Scented with orange groves, it’s a delight to see on the approach and offers equally fine views once there. The ruined castle, however, stands witness to tougher times. In the 15th century it was attacked continually, sought by both Muslims and Christians for its position guarding the northern access route to the Serranía de Ronda.
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