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Another pretty Huelva Province village, where the stone houses seem ageless. There are some nice Baroque churches too. More intriguing, however, is the mystical importance of the place, as seen in the hallowed caves and hermitage on the cliff above the town.

The Fortaleza de la Mota that dominates this once strategic town is unique in Jaén Province in that its original Moorish castle was built by the rulers of Granada. It is mostly in ruins now, but it still preserves the original seven gates. Inside, built on the remains of a former mosque, is the Gothic-Mudéjar church of Santo Domingo, which uses the former minaret as a belltower (see Fortaleza de la Mota, Alcalá la Real).

Clinging precariously to the edge of a breathtaking gorge, this whitewashed village has been known since Moorish times for its beauty and natural thermal waters (al-hamma means “hot spring” in Arabic). The Hotel Balneario preserves the 11th-century aljibe (cistern), graced by Caliphal arches. In the 16th-century Iglesia de la Encarnación some of the priestly vestments on display are said to have been embroidered by Queen Isabel the Catholic.

Notwithstanding its poetic Arabic name (al-mariyat means “mirror of the sea”), this town has lost much of its appeal due to modern development. Still, it does have a most impressive 10th-century Alcazaba, one of the most massive of the extant Moorish fortresses, and an engaging old quarter that still seems North African in essence.

From a distance, this lovely pueblo blanco in Huelva Province looks like a sprinkling of snow amid the green of the surrounding forests. The citadel features one of the oldest mosques in the region, dating from the 10th century.

The Costa Tropical is perhaps Spain’s most spectacular coast, where towering mountains rise from the shore. Almuñécar is the chief town along this stretch and it is now given over almost entirely to resort life. Yet it has an ancient heritage, dating back to the Phoenicians, and was an important port under the Moors. The intriguing Museo Arqueológico Cueva de Siete Palacios has a unique Egyptian vase dating from the 7th century BC (see Museo Arqueológico Cueva de Siete Palacios, Almuñécar).

So ancient that even the Romans called it Antiquaria, this market town presents a wonderfully condensed architectural history of the entire area, beginning with Neolithic dolmens dating from between 4500 and 2500 BC. In addition, there are significant Roman ruins, including villas with outstanding mosaics, a Moorish Alcazaba (closed to the public), the 16th-century Arco de los Gigantes, and fine Renaissance palaces and churches to explore. Many treasures originally found in the town – including the exquisite Ephebe of Antequera, a rare, life-size Roman bronze of a young boy – are displayed in the Municipal Museum, housed in an 18th-century palace.

Hours of fun with rides called Kamikazee, Waterfall Lake, Wavebreaker, Ring Rapids, Blackhole Rapids, Soft Runs and a special Children’s Lake for the littlest ones.

Another town built atop a sheer cliff, this is probably the most dazzling of the pueblos blancos and the one situated furthest west. As ancient as any town in the region, little remains of the period before the reconquista , when it received its “de la Frontera” appellation, meaning it was a bastion “on the frontier” between Christian and Moorish Spain. The Galería de Arte Arx-Arcis crafts museum and shop displays locally fashioned carpets, blankets, baskets and pottery (see Traditional Textiles).

The historic part of this town is from the Cuesta de Belén to the Puerta de Matrera – a zone that has been a recognized national monument since 1962. Consequently, it is beautifully preserved. Central to the area is the Plaza del Cabildo, with ancient walls in evidence and set about with orange trees. Unfortunately the castle below the square is not open to the public, but the terrace of the parador opposite is a fine place for a drink with a view.