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This stretch of Atlantic coast, named after its characteristic bright light (luz ) and covering the area from Chipiona to Tarifa, is still off the beaten path despite recent attempts to exploit its wild loveliness. Part of what protects it are the prevailing winds, wonderful for windsurfers but wretched for sunbathers, who may have to face wind-tossed sands travelling at fairly high speeds. Still, there are excellent beaches that can be enjoyed, often backed by cliffs, and modest resorts, such as Chipiona, mostly frequented by Spaniards.

Still living up to its well-earned reputation as one of the world centres for sun, surf and cheap, superficial fun, this string of former Mediterranean fishing villages nevertheless retains more than at first meets the eye. To those who care to look beyond the brash tourist enclaves, there is still much authentic charm on offer here – and even a good share of places that offer the chance of tranquil reflection – especially in the towns of Estepona, Nerja, Mijas and ultra-classy Marbella. Year-round golf makes the whole area a great attraction for international lovers of the sport (see Costa del Sol Golf Courses) and, in high season in particular, Torremolinos is the place to find some of Spain’s liveliest nightlife.

Two nicknames for this town, in the plains east of Seville, render a clear idea of its chief glory and its biggest challenge. “The Town of Towers” refers to its 11 Baroque belltowers, all adorned with glazed tiles. “The Frying-Pan of Andalucía” is a reference to its searing summer temperatures, due to the fact that it’s one of the few towns not built up a hill. Écija’s archaeological museum is worth a visit.

The Río Tinto (Red River) Mines, the world’s oldest, have been exploited as a source of mineral wealth for some 5,000 years, and the gradual stripping away of the rich ore has left a weird moonscape shot through with coloured fissures. A museum details the mines’ history.

Deserted most of the year except for the handful of residents – who still customarily get around on horseback – this town fills up to overflowing with as many as one million pilgrims during the annual Romería (see El Rocío’s Romería). It’s worth a visit at any time, however, to take in its wonderful Wild West-style architecture, as well as to book a tour of the nearby Coto de Doñana nature reserve (see Parque Nacional Coto de Doñana).

The fact that this town resembles an Old West frontier outpost is no accident. The Spaniards who settled what are now the states of Texas, New Mexico and Arizona mostly came from this part of Spain and took their architectural style with them. Horses are still a normal way to get around here – hence the hitching posts. The place bursts into life during the annual Romería, one of Spain’s largest festivals (see El Rocío’s Romería).

This gargantuan chunk of limestone rising up from the Mediterranean was one of the mythic Pillars of Hercules. Yet, despite being nicknamed “The Rock”, as a worldwide symbol of stability and security, this fortress is actually a serious political football these days. Taken by the English in 1704 as part of the War of the Spanish Succession, today it is still very much a part of the British ethos, and only grudgingly do the Spaniards who live around it even acknowledge its existence. The Spanish government meanwhile most definitely wants it back. Legend has it that Britain will retain sovereignty of the rock as long as its most famous residents, the wild Barbary apes, remain, but their increasing number does not prevent on-going diplomatic arguments. Still, if you’re homesick for Englishness, cross over the frontier at La Línea to enjoy some fish and chips or a pint of ale.

A guided tour of these marvellous caves – Spain’s largest – will wind through beautiful chambers with naturally coloured formations and names such as the Hut, Organ, Cathedral, Quail and Twins. The last room is a notorious crowd-pleaser – the Sala de los Culos (Chamber of the Buttocks). In addition to the twelve caverns, there are also six underground lakes, which create stunning visual effects. The “Great Lake” lies under a 70 m (230 ft) high vaulted ceiling.

This ancient town is famous for its cave dwellings, inhabited for centuries. They were developed after the reconquista by local Moors who had been cast out of society by the Christians. The Barrio de las Cuevas is a surreal zone of brown hills with rounded whitewashed chimneys sprouting up here and there. To learn more, visit the Cueva-Museo or instead stay in a cave hotel (see Cuevas Pedro Antonio de Alarcón, Guadix).