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Start your tour of this Renaissance town at the lovely Plaza del Pópulo (see Plaza del Pópulo, Baeza), where the tourist office is located in a fine Plateresque palace, the Casa del Pópulo. Next to it are the arches of the Puerta de Jaén (see Puerta de Jaén, Baeza) and the Arco de Villalar, while adorning the centre of the plaza is the Fuente de los Leones. The ruined lions and their eroded mistress, said to be a statue of Hannibal’s wife, still manage to convey an undeniable elegance.

Exiting the square to the left of the tourist office, continue southeast to the Plaza Santa María (see Plaza Santa María & Catedral, Baeza) and the cathedral. Note the graffiti in bull’s blood on the old seminary wall. Inside the cathedral, don’t miss the extravagant choir screen by Bartolomé de Jaén.

Next stop, to the north, is the Palacio de Jabalquinto (see Palacio de Jabalquinto, Baeza), with one of the most eccentric façades in the region, an example of Isabelline Plateresque style. Visit its inner patio and then that of the Antigua Universidad next door. Down the street, you can see the 1,000-year-old Moorish Torre de los Aliatares and around the corner, facing Paseo de la Constitución (see Paseo de la Constitución, Baeza), La Alhóndiga, the old corn exchange, with its triple-tiered façade.

Have lunch at an outdoor table of the Restaurante Sali across from the town hall, which offers a range of choices from local farms (Pasaje Cardenal Benavides 15 953 74 13 65 Closed Wed D €).

The Fortaleza de la Mota that dominates this once strategic town is unique in Jaén Province in that its original Moorish castle was built by the rulers of Granada. It is mostly in ruins now, but it still preserves the original seven gates. Inside, built on the remains of a former mosque, is the Gothic-Mudéjar church of Santo Domingo, which uses the former minaret as a belltower (see Fortaleza de la Mota, Alcalá la Real).

Set in a 16th-century mansion, this is another great place to try traditional dishes, such as pechuga de perniz en salsa (part-ridge breasts in sauce).

Like nearby Úbeda, this smaller town is also a jewel of Renaissance glory, but includes earlier remains dating back to the Moors and, before them, the Romans. The town radiates a sense of tranquillity as you walk from one cluster of lovely buildings to another. Again, much of the beauty owes its existence to Vandelvira (see Baeza and Úbeda).

For good-quality souvenirs this is likely spot. Choose from ceramics, leather goods, glassware and other accessories, all handmade.

This is an excellent place for finding local foodstuffs. Slow-cured hams, fine wines, olive oils and other delectables will tempt your palate.

Built into the old city wall, just inside the Judería, with Moorish arches and a stone floor, this atmospheric bar offers a good range of tapas .

This town, wonderfully rich in history and cultural importance, is also small enough to cover easily and enjoyably on foot. It has a delightfully contrasting mix of sights, from the architectural splendour of the great mosque – with a Christian church oddly sprouting out of its centre – to the whitewashed glories of the old Jewish quarter, the splendid Alcázar, and the frankly morbid museum dedicated to the bullfight. There are other engaging museums as well, featuring works of art by both Old Masters and local artists, and ancient artifacts evoking the area’s influential past.