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Start your tour of this Renaissance town at the lovely Plaza del Pópulo (see Plaza del Pópulo, Baeza), where the tourist office is located in a fine Plateresque palace, the Casa del Pópulo. Next to it are the arches of the Puerta de Jaén (see Puerta de Jaén, Baeza) and the Arco de Villalar, while adorning the centre of the plaza is the Fuente de los Leones. The ruined lions and their eroded mistress, said to be a statue of Hannibal’s wife, still manage to convey an undeniable elegance.
Exiting the square to the left of the tourist office, continue southeast to the Plaza Santa María (see Plaza Santa María & Catedral, Baeza) and the cathedral. Note the graffiti in bull’s blood on the old seminary wall. Inside the cathedral, don’t miss the extravagant choir screen by Bartolomé de Jaén.
Next stop, to the north, is the Palacio de Jabalquinto (see Palacio de Jabalquinto, Baeza), with one of the most eccentric façades in the region, an example of Isabelline Plateresque style. Visit its inner patio and then that of the Antigua Universidad next door. Down the street, you can see the 1,000-year-old Moorish Torre de los Aliatares and around the corner, facing Paseo de la Constitución (see Paseo de la Constitución, Baeza), La Alhóndiga, the old corn exchange, with its triple-tiered façade.
Have lunch at an outdoor table of the Restaurante Sali across from the town hall, which offers a range of choices from local farms (Pasaje Cardenal Benavides 15 953 74 13 65 Closed Wed D €).
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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