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Originally the site of a Roman fortification, the present fairytale castle goes back to the 14th century, when it was embellished in Gothic style. Before that, it had been a Moorish structure dating from AD 740 that had survived four centuries of Christian sieges. Magnificent views from the battlements take in the whitewashed town below. Legend holds that ghosts of those who died while imprisoned here haunt the eight monolithic towers.

This modern provincial capital is set off by the dramatically placed ramparts of the mighty Castillo de Santa Catalina (see Castillo de Santa Catalina, Jaén City), originally Moorish, and the immensity of its double-towered cathedral by Vandelvira (see Capilla Real and Catedral, Granada). You can fully experience the castle and its spectacular views of the city and surrounding olive groves, as it now houses a parador (see Paradors). Another rewarding stop is the Museo Provincial, especially to see the country’s finest collection of 5th-century BC Iberian sculpture.

The building of the first palace here dates from AD 936, commissioned by Caliph Abd el-Rahman III, the Emir of Córdoba and the man who brought the city to glory. He named it after his favourite wife, Az-Zahra (the Radiant). Though it is little more than a ruin now – sacked in 1009 and rediscovered only in 1910 – at one time this pleasure-dome incorporated a zoo, ponds and gardens, baths, houses, weapons factories and barracks, markets, mosques, a harem of 6,000 women and accommodation for 4,000 slaves. Decorated with ebony, ivory, jasper and marble, it even had a pool of mercury that created dancing lights on the walls and ceiling.

This town is the centre of Córdoba’s wine-making region, where the word amontillado originates, meaning “in the style of Montilla”. The wine produced here is like sherry, but nuttier and more toasted – and since the region is hotter than around Jerez, the grapes ripen more intensely and the wines need no fortifying. You can taste the difference for yourself at Bodegas Alvear, Montilla.

The far north of Córdoba Province is fertile grazing land for farm animals, as well as deer and wild boar. Most importantly, it is a “land of acorns”, densely clad with holm oaks and therefore a prime zone for raising the famed Iberian black pig. In October, the creatures are fattened up on acorns and their meat is elaborately cured to produce succulent jamón ibérico or pata negra , the local product rivalling that of Jabugo in Huelva Province.