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Begin your walk at Plaza Bib-Rambla, enhanced with flower stalls and the Neptune fountain. Fronting the western side of the square is the warren of ancient shopping streets called the Alcaicería (see La Alcaicería, Granada). Don’t miss the 14th-century Moorish Corral del Carbón, which now houses craft shops and a tourist office.
Once the cathedral (see Cathedral & Capilla Real, Granada) opens, it’s time for a visit there; be sure to see the enormous Santiago el Matamoros (the Moor-slayer) on horseback, by Alonso de Mena, adorning the altar of St James. The next stop is the Capilla Real (see Cathedral & Capilla Real, Granada); you should visit the crypt under the ostentatious marble sarcophagi of the kings and queens, where their bodies repose in plain lead boxes. On the carved Renaissance sepulchres, note the split pomegranate, symbol of a defeated Moorish Granada.
Continue on across the busy thoroughfares until you get to the river and the long expanse of the Plaza Nueva, Granada . Choose an outside table (the cafés here are all similar), order a drink and take in the street life.
Now it’s time to enter the labyrinth of the Albaicín (see Moorish Granada: Albaicín). Take Calle Elvira up to Calle Calderería Vieja for the vibrant bazaar of the Moorish Quarter. Following the old steep streets, keep going until you reach the fanciful La Tetería del Bañuelo, Granada , an inviting place to sip some mint tea and sample Moroccan sweets.
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