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This local favourite offers a wide choice of tapas and raciones and the leisurely atmosphere invites sitting around and eavesdropping on local gossip.

A little bar with balconies looking on to the plaza. For something different try the local liqueur made from bellotas (acorns).

In the heart of town, with terrace seating out in the square, this is a great little place for tapas . Go for the assortment menu if you want to be adventurous. One of the specialities is the rustic stew pisto , a concoction of vegetables with a poached egg.

On the south side of the town square this traditional bar is a classic Sierra place for coffee and a pastry.

This place is popular with devotees of rural cookery. Specialities include somillo de cerdo ibérico en salsa de setas (Iberian pork chops in wild mushroom sauce) and for dessert tarta de castañas (chestnut tart).

The closest major town east of Seville has been continuously inhabited for more than 5,000 years. Its Roman remains are truly exceptional, especially the huge necropolis. The view from the originally Roman Puerta de Córdoba (Córdoba Gate) out over the sweeping plains also shouldn’t be missed. Fine churches, palaces and alcázares adorn the site – one of the ancient castles is now restored as a spectacular parador (see Parador Alcázar del Rey, Carmona).

A few blocks from the main square, this is a premier tapas bar. It’s diminutive, but worth seeking out for the quality.

This rustic favourite is known for its tasty regional cuisine.

The place for tempting seafood and fish stews. Try the mouthwatering atún al horno (baked tuna).

The main town in the Sierra Norte is a steep cluster of white-washed houses. It’s a popular place for weekend getaways by sevillanos and particularly known for producing some of the area’s famous anise-based tipples. Just 3 km (2 miles) outside of town is the magnificently situated former Carthusian monastery, now restored as part hotel, part arts centre with gallery.