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Dominated by a 13th-century castle, this is one of the largest towns in the area.

In addition to leather, Valverde del Camino is known for furniture and fine wooden boxes. Embroidery work from Aracena and Bollullos del Condado is worth seeking out, as well as linen tablecloths from Cortegana and Moguer. Nearer the coast it is also common to see Moroccan goods for sale.

Considered a great delicacy and priced accordingly, raw wind-cured tuna (mojama ) is an acquired taste. Isla Cristina is the main centre of production, but you can buy it in the Mercado del Carmen in Huelva City.

Two nicknames for this town, in the plains east of Seville, render a clear idea of its chief glory and its biggest challenge. “The Town of Towers” refers to its 11 Baroque belltowers, all adorned with glazed tiles. “The Frying-Pan of Andalucía” is a reference to its searing summer temperatures, due to the fact that it’s one of the few towns not built up a hill. Écija’s archaeological museum is worth a visit.

The name refers to an area noted for its reliable white wine. Local finos include Condado Pálido and Condado Viejo.

This minuscule bar is part of the facilities for a camp site. The plus here is that along with your reasonably priced tapas there are woods and waterfalls to enjoy.

The Río Tinto (Red River) Mines, the world’s oldest, have been exploited as a source of mineral wealth for some 5,000 years, and the gradual stripping away of the rich ore has left a weird moonscape shot through with coloured fissures. A museum details the mines’ history.

A neighbourhood establishment that serves honest regional dishes centring on seafood, fish and ham. Occasional flamenco performances.

The fact that this town resembles an Old West frontier outpost is no accident. The Spaniards who settled what are now the states of Texas, New Mexico and Arizona mostly came from this part of Spain and took their architectural style with them. Horses are still a normal way to get around here – hence the hitching posts. The place bursts into life during the annual Romería, one of Spain’s largest festivals (see El Rocío’s Romería).

This beachside establishment has al fresco tables so you can people-watch while sampling tasty tapas . The speciality is, of course, fresh fish and seafood. Try raya (skate) in one of its various manifestations.