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A guided tour of these marvellous caves – Spain’s largest – will wind through beautiful chambers with naturally coloured formations and names such as the Hut, Organ, Cathedral, Quail and Twins. The last room is a notorious crowd-pleaser – the Sala de los Culos (Chamber of the Buttocks). In addition to the twelve caverns, there are also six underground lakes, which create stunning visual effects. The “Great Lake” lies under a 70 m (230 ft) high vaulted ceiling.

The Mesón Sánchez Romero Carvajal in Jabugo is one of the top producers of the local jamón ibérico (see Jabugo).

Next to an old monastery just east of Huelva where Columbus found spiritual retreat. You can have a drink or snack, or enjoy a full meal.

Founded by the Phoenicians, Huelva was at its peak under the Romans – the Museo Provincial conserves remarkable archaeological finds. The city’s other claim to fame is as the starting point of Columbus’s epic voyage (see Discovery of America). Huelva was the first port for New World trade, until Seville took over.

The provincial capital boasts its own El Corte Inglés department store on Plaza de España, while the area around it and just off Plaza 12 de Octobre constitutes the main shopping district. The Mercadillo (open-air market) is held every Friday on the Recinto Colombino.

These wind-blown ruins were once the third largest city in the Roman empire, founded in 206 BC and home to some half a million people during the reign of Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century. He was following in the glorious footsteps of his predecessor Trajan, who was another Itálica native. There’s a huge amphitheatre to explore, as well as some fine mosaics amid the crumbling walls. Most of the wonders are still buried, however, while others have long since been quarried for their stone or moved to the Archaeological Museum in Seville (see Museo Arqueológico).

The “home of ham” produces Spain’s most famous, known as jamón ibérico (cured Iberian ham), jamón serrano (mountain-cured ham) and pata negra , named after the black pigs that forage in the Sierra de Aracena.

A sociable place that purports to be the original town bar. There are tables on the square and good prices, too, for their line of drinks, tapas and other snacks.

The most notable leather goods come from Valverde del Camino. Choose botos camperos (cowboy boots) or the longer botos rocieros (Spanish riding boots). Many shops produce these items and other footwear, and a number of craftsmen make custom boots to order, taking three to four days to make a pair.

This attractive restaurant is the best for perfect seafood and fish.