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Massive ramparts, built by the Moors in the 12th century, attest to the central role this town played in defending the land. The walls stretch for about 2.5 km (1.5 miles).

The enormously powerful Dukes of Osuna get the credit for endowing this town with exceptional architecture. The massive bulk of the Renaissance church, the Colegiata de la Asunción, dominates the scene; inside, there’s an impressive painting of the Crucifixion by José de Ribera. The Universidad, also Renaissance, has tiled towers at its corners and a beautiful central courtyard. Elsewhere, fine mansions evoke the wealth of Spain’s most powerful families (see Palacio del Marqués de la Gomera, Osuna).

This wild area provides plenty of inspiring views and fauna (see Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche Park).

Europe’s largest nature reserve includes important wetlands and shifting dunes that are gradually moving inland. The fragile ecosystem can only be visited on guided tours.

Pottery in this area has traditional patterns influenced by Moorish art. Items include jars, plates and water jugs, decorated in blue, green and white glazes.

A place to try rabo de toro (stewed bull’s tail), game, or Perdiz con Arroz , (Partridge with Rice). Homemade desserts are a treat.

Housed in the historic Palacio de Benameji this is a memorable restaurant. The cuisine is equally refined and light, with special dishes highlighting fresh fish.

Carmona’s classiest choice occupies an old mansion and overlooks the eponymous plaza. Expect fine service and a well thought out menu that features a range of local game, lamb, duck and fresh fish. Great desserts.

Set off by a 13th-century castle, this village lies in the heart of the ham-curing area. The 15th-century parish church has a fine Baroque interior.

In Aracena, head for the Calle Pozo de la Nieve, a cobbled street lined with souvenir shops. In El Rocío, souvenir stalls flank the church, hawking paraphernalia associated with the famous Romería (see El Rocío’s Romería).