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Thursday is the day the market stalls arrive in this Huelvan town. The market in Plaza de Abastos is a traditional produce spread, featuring the strong-flavoured goat’s cheese favoured by the locals.

In Aracena, head for the Calle Pozo de la Nieve, a cobbled street lined with souvenir shops. In El Rocío, souvenir stalls flank the church, hawking paraphernalia associated with the famous Romería (see El Rocío’s Romería).

In addition to leather, Valverde del Camino is known for furniture and fine wooden boxes. Embroidery work from Aracena and Bollullos del Condado is worth seeking out, as well as linen tablecloths from Cortegana and Moguer. Nearer the coast it is also common to see Moroccan goods for sale.

Pottery in this area has traditional patterns influenced by Moorish art. Items include jars, plates and water jugs, decorated in blue, green and white glazes.

The most notable leather goods come from Valverde del Camino. Choose botos camperos (cowboy boots) or the longer botos rocieros (Spanish riding boots). Many shops produce these items and other footwear, and a number of craftsmen make custom boots to order, taking three to four days to make a pair.

The provincial capital boasts its own El Corte Inglés department store on Plaza de España, while the area around it and just off Plaza 12 de Octobre constitutes the main shopping district. The Mercadillo (open-air market) is held every Friday on the Recinto Colombino.

The name refers to an area noted for its reliable white wine. Local finos include Condado Pálido and Condado Viejo.

The liqueur of choice around this zone is anise-based. One of the best is Anis Cazalla from the eponymous town (see Cazalla de la Sierra).

The Mesón Sánchez Romero Carvajal in Jabugo is one of the top producers of the local jamón ibérico (see Jabugo).

Considered a great delicacy and priced accordingly, raw wind-cured tuna (mojama ) is an acquired taste. Isla Cristina is the main centre of production, but you can buy it in the Mercado del Carmen in Huelva City.