DK Travel : Andalucía and Costa del Sol : Sevilla and Huelva Provinces

Leaving behind the magnetic allure of glorious Seville , the rest of Sevilla Province and neighbouring Huelva Province are among the least visited areas of Andalucía. Consequently, much of the zone has remained a rural hinterland, where time moves slowly and the old customs prevail. Some of the finest nature preserves are here, too, including the ecologically essential Coto de Doñana, mountainous reaches and pristine beaches, generally frequented by Spaniards rather than tourists. Culturally rich as well, each town and village shelters surprising art treasures and ancient marvels, where you may find yourself the only visitor – a welcome relief after the throngs encountered elsewhere in Andalucía.

It is best to visit the Gruta de las Maravillas in the morning as entrance tickets tend to sell out quickly. If you don’t have your own car, 10 bus trips make the Columbus circuit, from Huelva City to Moguer and back, Tue–Sat.

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A Day in Columbus’s Footsteps

Morning

The first stop on the tour is the Monasterio de Santa María de la Rábida, 9 km (5.5 miles) from Huelva City , where a despondent Columbus found spiritual solace and practical help from the prior. The latter eventually persuaded Queen Isabel to sponsor the voyage that would discover America. The monks provide a tour (10am–1pm, 4–7pm Tue–Sat; Adm) showing visitors where Columbus stayed. It’s also a pleasant place for refreshment or a meal in the shaded café.

Below the monastery, on the waterfront, la Muelle de las Carabelas sports lifesize replicas of the three boats that made the trip (see Muelle de las Carabelas, La Rábida, Huelva Province).

Afternoon

Some 4 km (2.5 miles) northeast of La Rábida is the port, Palos de la Frontera, now silted up, from which Columbus set sail. More than half his crew also signed on here – the Iglesia de San Jorge is where the men heard mass before departing. Behind the church is La Fontanilla, the well that supplied them with water for the journey.

A further 7 km (4 miles) northeast is Moguer. Here, at the Convento de Santa Clara, Columbus gave thanks after his first voyage for having survived a storm in the Azores (Tours 11am–7pm Tue–Sat; Adm).

At the end of your circuit, relax over a meal at La Parrala.
Plaza de las Monjas 22, Moguer 959 37 04 52 Closed Mon €€
Aires de Doñana, El Rocío

French windows provide panoramic views of the marshes here. The Pato con Arroz (Duck with Rice) is a treat.
Alájar

A picturesque hamlet of whitewashed buildings, cobbled streets and a Baroque church.
Almonaster La Real

A 10th-century mosque, a castle and a bullring are all clustered on the citadel overlooking the village.
Anise Liqueur

The liqueur of choice around this zone is anise-based. One of the best is Anis Cazalla from the eponymous town (see Cazalla de la Sierra).
Aracena

Capital of the sierra, this is an attractive town blessed with fresh air. The oldest town hall in the province offers information about the sierra.
Aroche

Close to the Portuguese border, this town remains one of the best-preserved villages around. A wonderful oddity is the Museo del Santo Rosario, packed with rosaries that have belonged to Mother Teresa, John F Kennedy and General Franco, among others.
Aroche Markets

Thursday is the day the market stalls arrive in this Huelvan town. The market in Plaza de Abastos is a traditional produce spread, featuring the strong-flavoured goat’s cheese favoured by the locals.
Asador Marisqueria Picos de Aroche, Aroche

A wide variety of meat (try the local Iberian pig!) and seafood is on offer at this lovely grillhouse.
Bar Chimbito, Punta Umbria

An unconventional chiringuito (beach bar) popular for drinks and snacks, including grilled and fried fish. On an old ferry boat on the river, downstream from Huelva City.

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under €20
- €20–€30
- €30–€40
- €40–€50
- over €50