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Start at the exit to the Real Alcázar (see Real Alcázar, Seville), which is on Patio de las Banderas. Turn right to find the Arco de la Judería, a covered alleyway that leads to the Callejón del Agua, running along the old Jewish Quarter’s southern wall. As you proceed, you will be able to peep into some of the famously lush patios of these perfectly whitewashed houses. The writer Washington Irving once stayed at No. 2. After the wall ends, you’ll see the Jardines de Murillo on your right, where you can enjoy a tranquil stroll.
Then turn back to find Plaza de Santa Cruz , where the church that gave the neighbour-hood its name once stood, until it was burned down by the French in 1810. A 17th-century wrought-iron cross stands here now. Cross a couple of streets west to find the Hospital de los Venerables (see Hospital de los Venerables), and take in its delightful central courtyard and important art gallery. From here, go east to Calle Santa Teresa 8, the former home of the great artist Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, who died here in 1682 after a fall while painting frescoes in Cádiz.
Finally, work your way back towards the Cathedral (see Seville Cathedral & La Giralda) along Calle Mesín del Moro and then to Calle Mateos Gago. At No. 1 you’ll find the Cervecería Giralda , excellent for a drink and some tapas for either lunch or dinner.
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