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Start at the exit to the Real Alcázar (see Real Alcázar, Seville), which is on Patio de las Banderas. Turn right to find the Arco de la Judería, a covered alleyway that leads to the Callejón del Agua, running along the old Jewish Quarter’s southern wall. As you proceed, you will be able to peep into some of the famously lush patios of these perfectly whitewashed houses. The writer Washington Irving once stayed at No. 2. After the wall ends, you’ll see the Jardines de Murillo on your right, where you can enjoy a tranquil stroll.

Then turn back to find Plaza de Santa Cruz , where the church that gave the neighbour-hood its name once stood, until it was burned down by the French in 1810. A 17th-century wrought-iron cross stands here now. Cross a couple of streets west to find the Hospital de los Venerables (see Hospital de los Venerables), and take in its delightful central courtyard and important art gallery. From here, go east to Calle Santa Teresa 8, the former home of the great artist Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, who died here in 1682 after a fall while painting frescoes in Cádiz.

Finally, work your way back towards the Cathedral (see Seville Cathedral & La Giralda) along Calle Mesín del Moro and then to Calle Mateos Gago. At No. 1 you’ll find the Cervecería Giralda , excellent for a drink and some tapas for either lunch or dinner.

Set off by pairs of columns at either end – the southern set are ancient Roman and are surmounted by 16th-century sculptures of Hercules and Julius Caesar – this once fashionable promenade is now a rather dusty affair, but is very popular for its nightlife.

This is a good spot to load up on all the flouncy dresses, mantillas, shawls and so forth that you will need to participate in the various festivals that abound in the region (see Religious Festivals).

This building has been the town hall since the 16th century. Inside, the rooms are decorated with historic paraphernalia of the city and the monarchy, in a blend of Gothic and Renaissance styles. Outside, the façades reflect the evolution of taste, from the original Renaissance Plateresque work with its finely carved stone-work, to the 19th-century attempt to copy the style, seen from Plaza de San Francisco.

The “Steak Bar” is another characteristic Triana venue, traditional and full of local colour. It stays open late, as does almost everything in Andalucía.

Not far from the cathedral and in a picture-perfect setting next to the Jardines de Murillo, this tapas bar is part of the very up-market Basque restaurant that it adjoins – Egaña Oriza.

Virtually the same since it opened in 1893; expect a littered floor, old wood, lots of regulars and some choice comestibles. An Alameda district institution.

On a pleasant square, between the Iglesia San Salvador and the Convento de Santa Paula, lies this old-fashioned bar. The walls are decorated with faded photos of Seville in an earlier era.

This quarter, once home to Seville’s gypsies, was known for producing flamenco artists and bullfighters. It still creates fine ceramics (see Cerámica Santa Ana).

This pedestrianized promenade is the principal shopping street of old Seville. Here’s the place to window-shop for all the traditional flamenco and feria gear, and certainly the place to be seen during the early evening paseo .