Andalucía’s capital is an aristocratic yet relaxed city , with a fabulous and ancient cultural heritage that dates back beyond recorded history. Its fate has always been tied to its river, the Río Guadalquivir (“the great river” in Arabic), and the trade it offered the city. Today much of the riverfront is made up of an attractive tree-lined promenade. To take in all of the historic centre of Seville would require at least a week, as there is so much to see in the way of art and architecture as well as distinctive neighbourhoods each with their own charm. But its highlights, including the spectacular cathedral, Moorish and Renaissance palaces and fine museums, are all within walking distance of each other and could be handled in a weekend, giving you just a taste of one of Spain’s most beautiful cities.
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This is the place to find handmade jewellery, leather goods and cheap clothes. Thursday to Saturday.
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The least tacky of the flamenco shows aimed at tourists, ahthough without the soul-stirring authenticity of the real thing. If you come for the first show, you can watch the second for free. (see Top 10 Flamenco Venues)
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Although you’re unlikely to find any bargains here, the range of merchandise is impressive. Spain’s main department store chain carries not only clothes and accessories, but also perfume, housewares, decorative items, CDs and sporting goods. There’s also a food hall and supermarket, which stock gourmet foods.
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Just off the Alameda de Hércules, El Jueves flea market, held every Thursday, consists mostly of old junk, books and posters. Still, it’s fun to look for the occasional treasure. But beware of pick-pockets.
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Another modern venue, the main focus here is contemporary song and dance acts.
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Another venue that caters to the throngs of tourists who want a rousing flamenco show.
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The city’s oldest taberna dates from 1670 and is an essential stop on your Seville itinerary. Traditionally the place where tapa was invented.
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This tile-covered café is a fine vantage point in the Barrio de Triana from which to watch the world go by. In the evenings, the owners sometimes mount flamenco shows, and often display the works of local artists.
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This tapas bar offers specialities such as lamb with honey and courgette (zucchini) quiche.
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Now a part of Seville University, this handsome 18th-century edifice is the second-largest building in Spain, after El Escorial in Madrid. Famous for its fun-loving female workers, who at one time rolled three-quarters of Europe’s cigars, the old factory has been immortalized by Carmen , the world’s most popular opera. The doomed heroine, a hot-blooded gypsy cigarrera, remains, for many, the incarnation of Spanish passion.
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