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These two chief wonders of Seville beautifully embody the juxtaposition of the Moors and the triumphalism of their Christian conquerors.

Start at the exit to the Real Alcázar (see Real Alcázar, Seville), which is on Patio de las Banderas. Turn right to find the Arco de la Judería, a covered alleyway that leads to the Callejón del Agua, running along the old Jewish Quarter’s southern wall. As you proceed, you will be able to peep into some of the famously lush patios of these perfectly whitewashed houses. The writer Washington Irving once stayed at No. 2. After the wall ends, you’ll see the Jardines de Murillo on your right, where you can enjoy a tranquil stroll.

Then turn back to find Plaza de Santa Cruz , where the church that gave the neighbour-hood its name once stood, until it was burned down by the French in 1810. A 17th-century wrought-iron cross stands here now. Cross a couple of streets west to find the Hospital de los Venerables (see Hospital de los Venerables), and take in its delightful central courtyard and important art gallery. From here, go east to Calle Santa Teresa 8, the former home of the great artist Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, who died here in 1682 after a fall while painting frescoes in Cádiz.

Finally, work your way back towards the Cathedral (see Seville Cathedral & La Giralda) along Calle Mesín del Moro and then to Calle Mateos Gago. At No. 1 you’ll find the Cervecería Giralda , excellent for a drink and some tapas for either lunch or dinner.

Set off by pairs of columns at either end – the southern set are ancient Roman and are surmounted by 16th-century sculptures of Hercules and Julius Caesar – this once fashionable promenade is now a rather dusty affair, but is very popular for its nightlife.

This pedestrianized promenade is the principal shopping street of old Seville. Here’s the place to window-shop for all the traditional flamenco and feria gear, and certainly the place to be seen during the early evening paseo .

This is a good spot to load up on all the flouncy dresses, mantillas, shawls and so forth that you will need to participate in the various festivals that abound in the region (see Religious Festivals).

This building has been the town hall since the 16th century. Inside, the rooms are decorated with historic paraphernalia of the city and the monarchy, in a blend of Gothic and Renaissance styles. Outside, the façades reflect the evolution of taste, from the original Renaissance Plateresque work with its finely carved stone-work, to the 19th-century attempt to copy the style, seen from Plaza de San Francisco.

This 15th-century monastery has had its ups and downs over the centuries. During Spain’s Golden Age it was the favoured retreat of Christopher Columbus, whose remains were interred here for several decades. The monks went on to decorate their vast enclave with commissions from some of Seville’s greatest artists – most of the works are now in the Museo de Bellas Artes. In 1841 it became a ceramics factory. Finally restored as part of Expo ’92, the complex is today home to a contemporary art museum.

Erroneously said to be based on the house of Pontius Pilate in Jerusalem, this 15th-century gem is the most sumptuous of Seville’s urban mansions. It is a delightful blend of Mudéjar (Christian-Islamic), Gothic and Renaissance styles, punctuated with Classical statuary. Look for the head of the Greek boy, Antinous, who died as a teenager and was deified by his grief-stricken lover, Emperor Hadrian, in the 2nd century (see La Casa de Pilatos, Seville).

Now a part of Seville University, this handsome 18th-century edifice is the second-largest building in Spain, after El Escorial in Madrid. Famous for its fun-loving female workers, who at one time rolled three-quarters of Europe’s cigars, the old factory has been immortalized by Carmen , the world’s most popular opera. The doomed heroine, a hot-blooded gypsy cigarrera, remains, for many, the incarnation of Spanish passion.

This semicircular plaza was designed as the centrepiece for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. Almost completely covered with gorgeous glazed tiles, its surfaces depict historic moments and heraldic symbols of the 40 regions of Spain. A boating canal follows the arc of the structure, crossed by colourful footbridges. The site was used as a set in the film Star Wars: Attack of the Clones , for its other-worldly feel.

Legend has it that when the sevillanos decided to build their cathedral in the 15th century, they proclaimed their intention to erect an edifice so huge that later generations would call them mad. They achieved their aim with the largest church (by volume, not floorplan) in Christendom.

Tradition states that the imposing 13th-century Moorish dodecahedral (12-sided) watchtower, the Torre del Oro (Tower of Gold), is named after the golden tiles that once adorned it. Others say its name derives from its use as a warehouse for the gold coming in from the New World during Seville’s heyday. It now houses a small maritime museum. Nearby stands the Torre de Plata (Tower of Silver), a more modest octagonal tower, which most likely gets its name as a complement to its neighbour. Both towers originally formed part of the city’s defences.

This exotic palace was primarily the brainchild of Pedro I, who had it built as a lavish love-nest for himself and his mistress, María de Padilla.

This Renaissance-style pavilion was also one of the fabulous structures created for the 1929 Exposition and now houses Andalucía’s principal archaeological museum. The assemblage of artifacts ranges from Paleolithic finds, exhibited in the basement, to splendours of Roman and Moorish art, displayed on the upper floors. Outstanding are the Carambolo treasures of Tartessian gold, and the Roman sculpture collection is Spain’s most prestigious.

The least tacky of the flamenco shows aimed at tourists, ahthough without the soul-stirring authenticity of the real thing. If you come for the first show, you can watch the second for free. (see Top 10 Flamenco Venues)

Another modern venue, the main focus here is contemporary song and dance acts.

Another venue that caters to the throngs of tourists who want a rousing flamenco show.

This cultural centre is dedicated to Jewish influence. Top flamenco artists and renditions of Sephardic music.

Among Spain’s finest art repositories, it is second only to the Prado in Madrid for its range of great Spanish paintings. Housed in a former 17th-century convent, the collection focuses on the Seville School, led by Zurbarán, Cano, Murillo and Valdés Leal, including Murillo’s touching Virgen de la Servilleta . Don’t miss El Greco’s poignant portrait of his son and the polychrome terracotta of St Jerome by Florentine sculptor Pietro Torregiano, a colleague of Michelangelo’s.

A relaxed and authentic bar. Flamenco shows tend to happen on Monday and Thursday nights.

Despite its popularity with tourists, the atmosphere here is genuine. First-rate flamenco performers.

This quarter, once home to Seville’s gypsies, was known for producing flamenco artists and bullfighters. It still creates fine ceramics (see Cerámica Santa Ana).

The “Steak Bar” is another characteristic Triana venue, traditional and full of local colour. It stays open late, as does almost everything in Andalucía.

Not far from the cathedral and in a picture-perfect setting next to the Jardines de Murillo, this tapas bar is part of the very up-market Basque restaurant that it adjoins – Egaña Oriza.

Virtually the same since it opened in 1893; expect a littered floor, old wood, lots of regulars and some choice comestibles. An Alameda district institution.

On a pleasant square, between the Iglesia San Salvador and the Convento de Santa Paula, lies this old-fashioned bar. The walls are decorated with faded photos of Seville in an earlier era.

The place to buy the famous Triana pottery. In operation since 1870, this shop sells everything from replicas of 16th-century tiles to ashtrays. Similar workshops can be found on Calle Covadonga.

For music lovers there are CDs, DVDs and books covering a variety of genres from Fúsion to Flamenco.

This is the place to find handmade jewellery, leather goods and cheap clothes. Thursday to Saturday.

Although you’re unlikely to find any bargains here, the range of merchandise is impressive. Spain’s main department store chain carries not only clothes and accessories, but also perfume, housewares, decorative items, CDs and sporting goods. There’s also a food hall and supermarket, which stock gourmet foods.

Just off the Alameda de Hércules, El Jueves flea market, held every Thursday, consists mostly of old junk, books and posters. Still, it’s fun to look for the occasional treasure. But beware of pick-pockets.

For the latest in younger women’s fashion trends, this is the place to come.

Here you’ll find hip, affordable clothing for the entire family. In summer, the linen blends and light cottons are just right for the Andalucían climate. Scents and sunglasses too.