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fergday's Andalucía and Costa del Sol guide

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Canos de Meca

Going south from Cadiz city, when you reach Vejer get away from the main road and head for the beach. Canos de Meca is a very small town, barely a street on top of the beach. A famous spot for hipsters in the 70's, it still keeps some of that feeling. Young people hang around at the beaches (one of them nudist) untill the sunset, when you should go to one of the cafes on the cliffside and enjoy the view with a cold beer.

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Casa Aire de Lecrin

This little B&B is an absolute gem. Tucked away in the heart of Pinos del Valle, in the beautiful hills of the Lecrin Valley, the Casa is the epitomy of Andalusian style. The house was meticulously restored by the owner and your host, Anne-Muriel, whose flair for design and authenticity shines through in every corner. The bedrooms (all ensuite) are all individually decorated; we stayed in Shanghai, which is flavoured with oriental furniture and fabrics - we loved it. And the bed is one of the comfiest you will ever sleep in! There is a cosy sitting area with an extraordinary wooden fire place; and a little patio with dipping pool. There's also a dining room for breakfast in the winter, but as we were there in June, we ate on the beautiful roof terrace - from which you enjoy almost 360 degree views of the village and surrounding hills. Breakfast itself is fresh and healthy - juice squeezed from Anne-Muriel's own oranges; crusty bread bought fresh from the village bakery; fruits, yoghurts and preserves. Anne-Muriel herself is the perfect host - accommodating, helpful, friendly. Pinos is not for everyone - it's quiet (there's just one bar and a couple of shops); but if you are looking for a taste of the 'real' Spain and what to stay somewhere special, I can heartily recommend Casa Aire de Lecrin.

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A Week of Sun and Beaches

DAY 1

Get into the mood with a day in Jerez: make your way to the Spanish Riding School by 11am for a tour of the stables before the 'Equestrian Ballet' at noon. Have a long lunch accompanied by some chilled fino. Later visit the Cathedral and the Moorish castle before joining the evening paseo (stroll)

DAYS 2-3

Drive to Sanlucar de Barrameda to catch the 10am boat for the trip upriver into the Coto Donana Nature Reserve. Afterwards continue down to the charming little port of Chipiona. Spend the afternoon touring some of the peublos blancos that are scattered across the hilltops and often-sheer crags: head east to Arcos de la Frontera then climb through the oak woods around El Bosque to Ubrique.

DAYS 4-5

Head south through Medina Sidonia to Vejer de la Frontera, with its old Moorish town gates. Spend the afternoon on the endless beach at Zahara de los Atunes, to the south. Drive down to Tarifa and take a whale-watching trip in the Straits of Gibraltar. Afterwards, try windsurfing or go for a horse ride in the dunes.

DAY 6

A day for total relaxation by the beach. In the evening, enjoy fresh cooked fish by the sea.

DAY 7

Head towards the airport for your flight home, via Cadiz for a last late lunch overlooking the port and the clear-blue sea.

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itinerary
A Morning Walk in Jerez de la Frontera

Begin your tour at the impressive alcázar, with its many Moorish remains, including restored gardens, a mosque and a hammam (baths), as well as a camera obscura providing views of the city and beyond. Beside it is the stunningly decorated cathedral, extravagantly rich inside and out. Note the fine painting of The Sleeping Girl by Zurbarán in the sacristy.

Next take the tour – with tastings – of the González-Byass bodega, featuring possibly the oldest cellars in Jerez, with one designed by Gustave Eiffel. Don’t miss the many signatures of famous people on the barrels (called “butts”), including Queen Victoria, Cole Porter, Martin Luther King and General Franco, among others.

Continuing on north, the Pedro Domecq bodega also offers tours and is distinctively Moorish in style. A block further north, pop into the Museo Arqueológico to see the prized Greek bronze helmet from the 7th century BC, and then enter the Barrio de Santiago. This gently dilapidated neighbourhood of maze-like alleyways is home to a sizeable gypsy community and numerous flamenco venues.

To cap off your walk, continue straight out of the barrio to the east, past the Church of San Juan, to Restaurante Gaitán (C/Gaitán 3 956 34 58 59 ) for a lunch of excellent Andalucían and Basque food.

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areas and towns
El Torcal

A mountain nature reserve, great for hiking. The bizarre limestone rock formations are the big draw.

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Chipiona

This pretty resort town is crowded with Spanish beach enthusiasts in high season. The pace of life is leisurely, consisting of surf and miles of golden sand during the day, then strolls and ice cream until late in the evening.

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Sanlúcar de Barrameda

Famed for its manzanilla sherry and superb seafood, the town also offers beautiful churches, palaces and a tour of a bodega .

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El Chorro

The Chorro Gorge is a deep ravine, worn through a mountain of sheer rock by the Río Guadalhorce. You can walk up to the rail bridge and through the tunnel to get the best views.

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Vejer de la Frontera

Of all the pueblos blancos (see Pueblos Blancos), this one has kept its Moorish roots most intact. Its original four Moorish gates still stand and its labyrinthine streets seem barely to have changed in 1,000 years.

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Arcos de la Frontera

Another town built atop a sheer cliff, this is probably the most dazzling of the pueblos blancos and the one situated furthest west. As ancient as any town in the region, little remains of the period before the reconquista , when it received its “de la Frontera” appellation, meaning it was a bastion “on the frontier” between Christian and Moorish Spain. The Galería de Arte Arx-Arcis crafts museum and shop displays locally fashioned carpets, blankets, baskets and pottery (see Traditional Textiles).

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Costa de la Luz

This stretch of Atlantic coast, named after its characteristic bright light (luz ) and covering the area from Chipiona to Tarifa, is still off the beaten path despite recent attempts to exploit its wild loveliness. Part of what protects it are the prevailing winds, wonderful for windsurfers but wretched for sunbathers, who may have to face wind-tossed sands travelling at fairly high speeds. Still, there are excellent beaches that can be enjoyed, often backed by cliffs, and modest resorts, such as Chipiona, mostly frequented by Spaniards.

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Ronda

To many visitors over the centuries, this town evokes the “real” Andalucía, at its wild and spectacular best. This mountain rock eyrie is quite literally breathtaking, being dramatically sliced down the middle by El Tajo, a fantastically deep and narrow limestone ravine, formed over thousands of years by the Río Guadalevín. The town itself is essentially two in one – the ancient half being steeped in rich Moorish history, with lovely cobbled streets, while the more modern part on the north side of the gorge sees to contemporary everyday needs.

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Pueblos Blancos

The term “white villages” refers to the profusion of whitewashed hillside hamlets in the Serranía de Ronda, the mountainous territory around Ronda. Many of them are truly spectacular and it’s well worth spending several days driving from one to the other, and then striking out on foot to take in some of the views (see Drive from Ronda to Jerez). Towns not to miss include Grazalema, Zahara de la Sierra, Gaucín, Casares, Setenil, Jimena de Libár and Manilva. Villagers, who originally settled on these plains to protect themselves from potential bandits in the lowlands, have lived the same way of life for centuries, and retain a strong agricultural tradition. Between Grazalema and Zahara, you’ll go through Andalucía’s highest mountain pass, the breathtaking Puerto de las Palomas (The Pass of the Doves).

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Cádiz

Said to be Europe’s oldest city, Cádiz still retains an aura of ageold mystery. The golden-domed cathedral on the waterfront is a spectacular sight.

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food
Bar La Farola, Ronda

This traditional tapas bar serves wonderful chipirones (baby squid), berenjenas (aubergine/ eggplant) and mouth-watering chorizos (paprika sausages).

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El Faro, Cádiz

Cádiz is renowned for its fresh fish and this is probably the best place to experience such delights. Lubina (sea bass) is a perennial favourite, as are cigalas (giant crayfish).

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Places to Eat in the Region

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Bar Altamirano, Marbella

Despite Marbella’s glitzy image there are several affordable and traditional tapas bars. This is one of them, just southeast of Plaza Naranjos; it even has its seafood specialities listed on ceramic menus.

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Bar Juanito, Jerez

This bar is famous for the best tapas in town. Try fideos con gambas (noodles with prawns).

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Café Carabeo, Nerja

This café has been cut into the cliff, so you have views of the sea while protected under palm frond umbrellas.

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Real Alcázar, Seville

A mix of styles is evident in this vast and luxurious pleasure palace, built almost entirely by Moorish artisans on behalf of their Christian overlords, including the lush gardens.

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