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A beloved central Athens institution, especially among journalists, who trade stories at the marble-topped tables. The plentiful mezes are consistently good.

A former silk factory converted into a trendy, upmarket arts centre. Athinais has two restaurants – one, Red, is renowned for its creative food and luscious red-curtained decor (see Red) – plus a museum, bar, music hall and old-fashioned cinema. Check the Athens News for events listings.

A good place to warm up on a cold winter’s weekend – the crackling fireplace casts a glow over everything. Go for a bowl of hot, aromatic stifado stew (see Stifado).

The whole area around the central meat market teems with old, family-run shops selling traditional foodstuffs. Bahar is one of the best-known for herbs.

The name means “codfish”, which this local favourite has been serving up, with strong garlic sauce, for 140 years.

A 100-year-old-plus underground hideaway with justly famous fried cod and its very own ancient column. (see Bakaliarakia tou Damigou)

In the gardens of an exquisite Neo-Classical mansion, this elegant bar and restaurant draws an attractive crowd.

There’s no sign, but you’ll spot this cult favourite by all the students tucking into Uncle John’s hearty dirt-cheap dishes.

A most popular taverna, open year round on the beach. Mussels are the local speciality – baked, fried or served in sauce. The homemade vegetable pies are also good.

Built in Livorno (Italy) in 1910, this 140-m (460-ft) long battleship was designed to carry 670 men in peacetime and 1,200 during war, and led the Greek fleet through the Balkan Wars and World Wars I and II. Negotiating a series of narrow ladders, you can explore the entire ship, from the kitchen and engine rooms to the main bridge, from the cramped dark space where the crew slept in hammocks, to the contrasting luxury of the officers’ mess and the Admiral’s sumptuous wooden panelled suite.