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The earliest type of Greek vase-painting: black figures are etched into red ceramic glaze, creating a somewhat stiff, formal image.

The entire hotel is suites and apartments, a convenience for the long-stay guest. The accommodation is pleasant, simple rather than luxurious and the bathrooms employ a distinct economy of scale. The location is Athens’ southernmost suburb – great for clean air, nearby beaches and summer clubs, but a bit of a slog to reach the city centre.

The bland decor belies the wild scenes that come to life after 2am. One of the few rembetatika to draw a primarily young, hip crowd with its gypsy blues.

This shop appears at first to be a wardrobe store for wannabe Hell’s Angels. But take in your favourite jeans and the owner, Pantelis, will make you an exact replica in leather for only €300.

Posh and pricey, this Italian nouvelle cuisine restaurant is prime dining and has an admirable wine list.

A vast terrace with stunning views from Kastella across the sea to Athens compensates for an impersonal, dated interior.

Located in a quiet residential neighbourhood in the wealthy southern suburb of Glyfada, this hotel offers one and two bedroom apartments with full kitchens and access to all hotel services, including business facilities. The hotel is close to the beach and surrounded by gardens.

This hotel in a former sponge factory is one of the most charming places to stay in all of Greece. The quaint rooms and flower-filled courtyard are lovely, though some regulars say that service has dipped a little.

The museum’s 15,000 objects (only a fraction of which are displayed at any one time) date from the 3rd to the 19th century, chronicling the rise and decline of the great Byzantine Empire. There are priceless sculptures, icons and richly worked gold and silver religious trappings. The permanent collection is housed in a smart new two-level space built partially underground, which opened in summer 2004. (see Byzantine Museum, Museums - Byzantine Museum)